Day 282: Golspie to Brora

Limited by Sunday public transport options, I have a leisurely short walk today, leaving plenty of time to chat over breakfast with John, the Airbnb owner. He worked for 30 years on a boat safety crew for the rigs, retrieving scaffolding workers and “jumpers” from the sea. Nicola Sturgeon is not on his Christmas card list, imposing additional costs on the B&B sector to address the tension between buy-to-let and affordable housing. Why not exempt long-standing homeowners who rent out one or two rooms? It seems strange to hit the tourist industry in the more remote parts of the country.

The path north out of the village passes a ford, so I’m immediately distracted, scrambling over the rocks for a closer look.

What an atmospheric location for a house, although it appears to be empty at the moment.

Soft grass springs beneath my feet. Two dogs chase a ball thrown across the stony shore into the sea.

A perfect morning for a stroll — the first frost of winter underfoot.

The highlight of the walk is a magnificent view of Dunrobin Castle, which resembles a French château. It was home to the Duke of Sutherland, controversial for his role in the highland clearances when thousands of tenants were evicted and resettled in coastal villages to allow the vacated land to be used for sheep farming.

The castle and grounds are closed to visitors over winter, so I content myself with exploring the perimeter of the walled gardens. A 4×4 rumbles along the private road, and a smartly dressed couple hop out for a romantic photograph in front of the castle.

Pretty woodland surrounds the castle.

Emerging from the trees to open grassland, the views up and down the coastline are gorgeous.

Carn Liath perches on the hillside, but a large herd of cows with calves block the gate, so I make a small detour down to the shingle beach to slow any frisky beasts.

The broch, a round drystone-walled Iron Age tower, has a small guardhouse built into the hollow wall at the entrance. A staircase runs up between the walls to the upper floors. The remains of a village are scattered around the base of the tower.

Descending back down the grassy slope to the beach, I indulge in a little wave-dodging, which earns me a wet foot.

A tranquil pool lies just above the high-water mark.

My walk ends with a gentle grassy stroll into Brora for the train back to Golspie. A lovely stretch of coastline. It’s been good to enjoy the sunshine before snow arrives tomorrow.

Date of walk: Sunday 17 November 2024.

Walk distance: 6 miles.

Total distance: 4,707 miles.

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