Snow fell during the night. Time-travellers leave no footprints.
Crossing the golf course at Brora, fresh snow crunching under my boots, I’m giddy among childhood echoes.
I choose the beach rather than a narrow icy strip between a stone wall and the fence. Timing the waves for a 30-yard dash across the sand, the ocean wins.
The John o’Groats Trail guide warns that Loth Burn may be uncrossable, setting out an inland detour via the A9. It’s high tide and the water is several feet deep at the river’s mouth, but it’s possible to cross upstream at the rocks below the railway bridge. The bigger problem is the far bank, steep and thick with gorse. I manage to squeeze along the water’s edge, ducking under branches.
There are several interesting wooden beach huts nestled in the dunes. They look deserted and yet someone drove along here since the snow fell.
The mystery is solved. A caravan site. An exposed site.
Not in this weather.
Caravans are scattered haphazardly across the dunes at Crakaig, sitting silently in the snow.
A report from Tripadvisor captures it perfectly:
The bizarre site has an end of the earth feel to it, caravans just randomly strewn across a huge area, wind blowing and very lonely feel to it, like I’m on the run from authorities and a friend had found this place for me to stay where I wouldn’t be found.
Strange creatures emerge from the sea and scatter as I approach.
The short winter days ensure each walk finishes in gorgeous light. I’m so absorbed in taking pictures that I fail to notice a larger-than-normal wave approaching and end up with wet trousers.
The path becomes more difficult, running next to the railway line, the snow-covered rocks waiting to trip me up. It’s slow progress. A two-carriage train passes with a cheery toot from the driver.
Oh oh! I’ve seen this weather front before.
I’m caught in a snow flurry, but I don’t mind; it’s so beautiful.
It’s getting too dark and the snow-covered trail is increasingly difficult, so I cut across to the main road a couple of miles out of Helmsdale, reaching the village just as heavier snow begins to fall.
The Airbnb owners said they might not be at home. The front door is unlocked. How’s that for village life? It’s a cool place.
La Mirage Restaurant serves the most amazing fish and chips, before returning through the snow in search of warmth.
There is still no one home. The radiator seems to have switched itself off and my room is rapidly chilling, so I dive under the duvet to stay warm. What a fantastic day. I wonder how much snow will fall tonight?
Date of walk: Monday 18 November 2024.
Walk distance: 12 miles.
Total distance: 4,719 miles.
Postscript
I recently visited the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition at the National History Museum. Wildlife and nature are integral to my hiking journey. I will feature one of my favourite photographs at the end of each post, having approached each photographer to obtain permission. Most are passionate about conservation work, so I have also included a link to their website.
The first is the winner of the exhibition. Who could imagine tadpoles are so beautiful?
Shane Gross is a Canadian marine conservation photojournalist.
Magic day.
Great photos again. What a lovely idea to include some Wildlife Photographer of the Year images.
I look forward to seeing them.
It was lovely that all the photographers I contacted were so responsive and friendly.
Wow what stunning conditions. I mean i’m sure it was cold (but usually I find if you keep walking you soon get warm) but very very beautiful especially with the sun. Well done for getting across by the railway bridge. I went that way too but at least you didn’t have people watching you as I did – it always feels like I am under more pressure to not fall in with people watching.
I remember that very odd caravan park too. There are a surprising number of caravans dotted about in very remote parts of the Scottish coast.
Nice idea with the wildlife photographer images too. I always used to enjoy the Landscape Photographer of the year awards too, but it doesn’t seem to be happening this year (everything on the website stops at 2023), which is a shame. They used to display the photos at railway stations so you could stop and take a look on your way somewhere.
I almost gave up on the river crossing as the far bank was so tricky to walk along, but anything to avoid more of the A9!
Your photographs today are exceptionally beautiful with the sand and snow together. And the Wildlife Photographer of the Year image is stunning.
Thanks Anabel. I was blessed with the weather.
Oh – I will be in London for a couple of weeks after Xmas – must go and see the exhibition. Beautifully atmospheric photographs – I feel the cold.
I had four layers on! You will love the exhibition.
The charity that supports the John o’ Groats trail is planning to construct a bridge across the Loth Burn this winter, hopefully it will be ready for spring hikers!
Thanks for the update. That will make a big difference.
What an exceptional day. And finishing with a fish supper in La Mirage too!