Day 287: Keiss to John o’Groats

Skipping the section from Berriedale to Whaligoe due to the snow puts John o’Groats within my reach. Sunny weather is forecast, so what better way to finish the hiking year? My pronunciation of Keiss has improved from yesterday as the bus driver does not comment.

I’m dropped off in the village and turn north, passing the old fishing harbour and warehouse.

Old Keiss Castle is in danger of crumbling into the sea. Thankfully, two stiles cross the nearby barbed-wire fence, allowing a safe diversion through a field to avoid squeezing along the eroding cliff.

It’s so warm that I’m down to two layers by noon. Nybster Broch is one of the most extensive Iron Age settlements I’ve seen, with several buildings connected by passages.

I can’t resist walking out to the end of the stone jetty in the nearby harbour.

The remains of Bucholly Castle sit atop beautiful sandstone cliffs.

I’m happy to admire the ruins from a distance. It’s possible to climb across the narrow moat but I’d like to see 2025.

Seals with pups lie at the bottom of Selly Geo. Despite filming at maximum zoom, the adults raise their heads and watch me warily, so I move on, not wanting them to abandon their pups, especially the cute little fella rolling on his back.

Dog walkers watch me cross the burn at sandy Freswick Bay.

Ignoring the warning about cows, I enter a field via a stile only to find the exit blocked by a barbed-wire fence, which I clamber over with difficulty and a small tear to my trousers.

This is not a hiker-friendly stretch. A sign requests walkers to Respect Landowner Privacy and descend to the shore if passable. Well, the tide may be out, but it’s hard work over large boulders and I stumble a couple of times before reaching the safety of Skirza pier.

Wife Geo is spectacular. It’s a pity the sun is setting and it lies in the shade.

Over the moors to Duncansby Head.

The Stacks of Duncansby are magnificent, despite falling into shadow.

What a gorgeous finish, strolling along the grassy trail to the lighthouse in golden sunlight. The Orkney Islands are so close I can see snow on the hills.

Duncansby Head Lighthouse marks Britain’s most north-easterly point, despite John o’Groats stealing the show. The headland is deserted apart from two cars sitting in the tiny car park; a comfortable way to enjoy the view. It’s not as warm for me, but there’s still time to celebrate with a mince pie and one of the whisky samples I picked up at the Laphroaig Distillery on Islay.

A road winds across the moors to John o’Groats. The two cars pass and the lighthouse light is on by the time I reach the end.

I arrive at the A99 and another, less famous, landmark—Britain’s most north-easterly bus stop. The last bus to Wick does not arrive for another couple of hours, and it’s freezing now that the sun has set. After a little jig and shadow box to warm me up, mercifully unseen under the cover of darkness, I head down the road to the nearby Seaview Hotel and a warm bar to wait for the bus. Storm Bert arrives tomorrow — a signal to flee south and home.

Date of walk: Friday 22 November 2024.

Walk distance: 14 miles.

Total distance: 4,765 miles.

Postscript 1 — End of year

After a lazy December, eating, drinking and playing games with friends and family, I’ll head back to the West Coast in January. The plan is to base myself in Oban and explore the coastline north and south, visit some of the small islands and perhaps climb a couple of mountains, snow permitting. My eldest son, Cal, may join me for a day to teach me some basic techniques for hiking in the mountains in winter using crampons and an ice axe. This will give me more options for hiking in the North West over the next few years.

In February, I’m hiking two short trails in New Zealand from 100 Hikes of a Lifetime, with my daughter Hayley.

March may see a return to camping, either continuing along the North Coast or making a long diversion inland through Glen Coe and up to Fort William. How can I resist the mountains and rewalking part of the West Highland Way instead of following the A82 along the coast?

Happy Christmas and New Year!

Postscript 2 — Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition at the National History Museum

Romance is Dead

William Fortescue captures mating rituals in the Serengeti National Park.