Today’s section of the SWCP is rated severe. Ian is hiking with me again, kindly dropping me off at the isolated 13th-century St Aldhelm’s Chapel.
First, I must walk back east to Winspit Quarry, which is closed to film the new Star Wars series. The track is narrow, muddy, and slippery. Unbelievably, despite being 8 am, a couple of gazelle-like runners hurtle past, oblivious of the conditions — better them than me.
The quarry is sadly deserted. Droids and Wookiees don’t work weekends.
Returning to St Aldhelm’s Head, I wave through the window at the chap manning the Coastwatch station. He steps outside and shows me the water patterns on the sea around the hidden reef. His role is to log vessel movements and spot accidents that the inshore Coastguard station would not be aware of, such as lone sailors falling overboard. I suggest he may wish to log my movements in case I don’t resurface at Lulworth Cove.
It does not take long to appreciate that the rolling climbs of The Seven Sisters are not in the same league as the V-shaped terrors on this walk.
A pause for reflection at the Royal Marines memorial on Emmetts Hill. It’s a poignant moment as the sun briefly breaks through the cloud for the first time.
Ian joins me high above the beautiful curve of Chapman’s Pool.
The Jurassic coastline is staggering, primitive, and towering.
We can’t resist climbing Worbarrow Tout and looking back along the coastline.
Worbarrow Bay lies ahead.
There’s another steep climb out the bay up to Flower’s Barrow Iron Age hill fort. Sitting at the top, gazing back at the turquoise sea, we are running out of superlatives.
The cliff ahead falls away at a crazy angle — are we walking up that?
Tank targets are strewn across the hillside, surrounded by smashed concrete shells and rusting metal casings.
Climbing up the next slope from Arish Mell beach, we pass a couple of guys cruelly drinking cold beers.
There’s a sharp and tricky climb down to Mupe Rocks.
Passing through barbed wire gates marking the end of the MOD range, we are very happy to arrive at Lulworth Cove for a quick paddle in the icy water and a celebratory selfie.
I think insane would be a better categorisation for the walk than severe. I guess you have to earn the rewards it bestows. It’s the most breathtaking walk I’ve done over 400 miles to date.
Unfortunately, my right knee started playing up a few weeks ago, walking up Hengistbury Head and seems to be getting worse. I don’t know if it is the walking or the excessive weeding in the garden over the past month. Emotionally, it also feels too soon to start another section after such a high. Time for a week off to let it all soak in.
Walk distance: 16 miles.
Total distance: 401 miles.
Hi Tony, that is a superb walk and I have a particular soft spot for Kimmeridge Bay. I did some of your walk back in 2013 starting at the begining / end of the SWCP. It was a tough old day and my heart sank after rounding St Aldhelms Head to find that steep up and down above Chapmans’ Pool. I continued onto Kimmeridge village but would have struggled if I had stayed on the SWCP, as a landslip meant I had to divert inland and avoided some of the other up/downs. I think i’ve mentioned before that the Coastguard cottages near to St Aldelms Head were used in the James Blunt musical video “i’ll carry you home”.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IFF9yu5i3k
Just back yesterday from my first excursion of the year and empathise with your aches and pains.
That is a good video spot! I hope you were not blown away on the walk. The weather looked foul.
Is this the best coastal walk in southern England. I think it just might be. Glad to see you photographed “that” hill by St Aldhelms Head. It does look from a distance that the cliffs are fairly level you only see that V-shaped dip as you get close to it. The hill just up from Worbarrow Bay is another very steep (it’s actually much harder going down, it’s almost too steep to avoid slipping especially if the grass is wet). Lovely photos too.
Chapmans Pool is a lovely beach too. I think it is as beautiful as Lulworth Cove but much less “discovered”.
Thanks Jon. I would have walked down to the beach huts at Chapmans Pool but the day was already shaping up to be a killer so I eased off on the detours for once. I am hard pressed at the moment to think of a better one day walk that I have done in this country.
Stunning views. Killer climbs!
Only a week off?
Well done again Tony.
Hi Peter. The next stretch is nice and flat so a chance to stretch my legs without putting pressure on my knee. Just one day of walking and some sight seeing.
The flapjack (and the poles) got us through!
Thanks for another great day’s walking. Agreed – got to be up with the best one-dayers in the country.
Cheers
Yup. Thanks to Wendy I now have the secret recipe to sustain me on my journey!