It’s pitch black and I’m crossing the Bridge over the Atlantic onto Seil Island, the only passenger on the first bus to Ellenabeich village and the ferry to Easdale Island. The driver will pick me up anywhere along his route on my return to Oban. What a fantastic service West Coast Motors operates. I’ve found all their drivers to be friendly and helpful. More importantly, they’ve never let me down on those cold nights in the middle of nowhere when you pray for that last bus to turn up.
There’s an hour to wait for the next ferry, so I explore the village to keep warm. Remnants of the old steamer pier point across to Easdale.
A tiny ferry arrives to take me to a tiny island. At just over a mile round, Easdale is the smallest permanently inhabited island of the Inner Hebrides.
The ferryman tells me I can pay on the return journey as I’m not going anywhere without him.
“Welcome to paradise!”
A grassy bank next to the jetty sprouts a colourful collection of wheelbarrows for residents to transport items to their houses. There are no cars on the island.
Pretty whitewashed cottages ring a village green with two football nets and one of those signs giving the distance to various parts of the globe. The island has a permanent population of about 60.
Strange creatures roam.
The walk is, naturally, similar to that on Luing and just as interesting, passing over mounds of slate and weaving between flooded quarries and the sea.
A grassy path leads up the central hill to a viewpoint with magnificent views in all directions.
A large quarry in the village is the venue for the World Stone Skimming Championships held every September. It’s been a long time since I skimmed stones with the kids. I suspect my stones would be more sinkers than skimmers.
On the return crossing, the ferryman asks me to move from the port to the starboard side to balance the boat. You don’t get that with CalMac.
I head south along the Seil coastline to Cuan Ferry where I crossed to Luing Island yesterday.
Paul Gent, one of the artists I met yesterday, produced this lovely advert for their outing in this area.
A slate causeway separates a lagoon from the sea, overlooked by the old quarry master’s house.
The route is rough and boggy, churned up by cows.
On reaching Cuan Ferry, I turn north and follow the road, with gorgeous views across the valley and Seil Sound.
Kilbrandon and Kilchattan Parish Church overlooks the road. A sign welcomes visitors to view its collection of stained-glass windows, but the door is locked — not so welcome then.
I’ve enjoyed the scenery too much, missing the turn-off to explore the northwest of the island, and finding myself at Clachan Bridge (the Bridge over the Atlantic) two hours before the bus is due. The bridge was built in 1792 to connect Seil to the mainland, being steeply humped to provide clearance for small vessels.
There’s time to explore the headland, read and enjoy the view.
Returning to the bridge, there’s no bus stop, so I hope the driver will pick me up, especially as the sun sets and the temperature drops.
Headlights appear through the trees and the bus pulls over as promised, offering warmth and sanctuary. It’s been another dry and pleasant day.
Date of walk: Monday 20 January 2025.
Walk distance: 9 miles.
Total distance: 4,804 miles.
Fascinating.
I do like to do a bit of skimming from time to time, plenty of lakes where I live!
Remind me not to challenge you to a contest.
Sounds wonderful Tony!
It’s a while since I’ve been to Seil and Easdale but Easdale is a very pleasant little island to stroll around.