Day 293: Benderloch to Barcaldine

Catching the first bus each morning in the cold and dark is wearing, so I treat myself to a later start. Unfortunately, this means the incoming tide now blocks the An Sailean marshes, forcing me back to the road, which adds an extra mile to Lochnell House.

Dangerous vehicles hurtle past.

The backroads are dull, and I’d rather not have to retrace my steps. Checking the map, could I cut north across the marshes on my return? I doubt there is enough time as water lies everywhere, the fields are enclosed by barbed wire fences, and the watching residents are hostile.

Everything is damp, the trees covered in moss and lichen.

Lochnell House is surrounded by a walled garden and the path follows the outside of the wall. Is it empty? Several windows are bricked up. I walk slowly up the driveway for a closer look and a better photograph. There are no lights on, apart from a dim light coming from an open basement door. I’m tempted but don’t wish to be confronted for trespassing, not to mention the ghostly music reported from the house in the past.

It’s a pretty walk along the edge of the hillside up to Lady Margaret’s Tower. Slipping on the leaves, I need to pay more attention given the steep drop to my left. There are sounds of industry from the boatyard far below.

I’ve taken the wrong route, doubling back up a set of steps to a higher path and the tower — bigger than expected.

Sitting at the back of the tower, it’s time for a Kit Kat. There’s nothing finer when it’s cold and the chocolate fingers are crispy. I lived on milk and Kit Kats as a postgrad in Edinburgh and survived.

I retrace my steps down the hill and back to the road. It’s no surprise to find lungwort everywhere. If I sit down long enough for lunch I’ll probably find it growing on me.

Strange pagan creatures roam the woods.

Heading north, a lone goat appears at the roadside. I’m thinking Severance.

The roads finally bring me to the Isle of Eriska — a privately owned isle with a five-star hotel.

The views are pretty but the dull light washes everything out. What a contrast to yesterday.

It does not take long to walk round the island path which alternates between the shoreline and the woods. The grey and damp weather is not flattering, but this was a long there-and-back detour so not one I’d recommend given the wonderful choice of alternative islands.

I’m sure the hotel is luxurious, offering a spa and fine dining. The cheapest room is £495, so it seems to cater to a certain market.

Did that head turn?

Barcaldine Castle can be hired for exclusive use for £3,600 for two nights.

Loch Creran is my last view before returning to the A828 and a long walk on the adjacent cycle path.

I’m not going to reach the bus stop in time. It’s dark and the traffic is fast, so I need to find a long section of the road with a place for the bus to pull over. The driveway of a house might work.

The bus appears and signals to stop in response to my windmilling arms. Maybe I overdid that bit.

I call into the Wetherspoons for dinner and as I leave, bump into Paul, one of the artists on the bus earlier in the week. He has popped in while his young daughter is attending her shinty class — tough cookie. Oh well, perhaps I can stay for another pint.

Next day

Storm Eowyn is due to hit tomorrow. Avanti warns that trains may not run north of Glasgow and offers free travel today, so I’ll skip the final day and head home while I can.

Waiting for the train, a young couple with large backpacks are heading for the ferry to Mull. Their plan is a bothy tonight and then a B&B in Tobermory tomorrow. It’s her first time backpacking and he hopes she catches the bug. Perhaps not the best time for an initiation. I hope she loves him!

Date of walk: Wednesday 22 January 2025.

Walk distance: 23 miles.

Total distance: 4,852 miles.