The West Highland Way (“WHW”) was my first long-distance trail. You know what they say about your first love. Given the choice between walking 13 miles along the A82 coast road to Fort William or revisiting Glen Coe and Rannoch Moor over several days, it’s an easy decision to abandon the coast again. The plan is to spend four nights in the Kingshouse Hotel Bunkhouse, bag a few Munros and shadow the West Highland Line across the moors to Fort William, where Cal will join me to hike up Ben Nevis via the Carn Mor Dearg Arête. I’m in no hurry to leave this magnificent landscape.
Unusually, all the trains ran on time to Oban yesterday, so I paid the full fare for once. Riding in the lovely evening light, I glimpsed the HMS Prince of Wales aircraft carrier in Loch Long, rearming before deploying to the Indo-Pacific.
Today, I’d planned to catch the bus to Dalnatrat and hike through the glens to Kingshouse, a challenging 24 miles, loaded with provisions for the next few days, without realising the route includes 3,255 feet of ascent, so a quick change of plans. I’ll stay on the bus as far as Ballachulish, leaving more gaps to be filled when I return to Mull.
Stepping down from the bus, I’m immediately distracted by an obelisk at the entrance to an old slate quarry. Why place a sandstone sculpture outside a slate quarry? This is where they retire old monoliths. The artwork, by Francis Pelly, originally marked the end of the WHW in Fort William, now replaced by the famous “Man with Sore Feet” by David Annand.
Walking east alongside the A82, the reflections in Loch Leven are striking, despite the grey skies, so I wander down to the Glencoe Boat Club jetty for a closer look.
Glencoe village sits at the entrance to the glen, where I cross the river and take a quiet road through the trees, eventually passing the famous Clachaigh Inn, where walkers and climbers have gathered for over 300 years.
Rejoining the main road, a path to one side skirts Loch Achtriochtan, home to one of the most photographed buildings in the valley.
There’s a good path to the car park at the Three Sisters Viewpoint. Bidean nam Bian, one of my planned Munros, is frosted with snow.
Things become more difficult as the road cuts through rock, forcing me to cling to the outside of the crash barriers or risk the traffic. This is a mistake. I missed a track up the hill to the left of the road, scrambling up the bank to join it.
The track stops just short of the point at which the WHW path turns up the Devil’s Staircase. A young couple carrying rock climbing gear try to hitch the three miles back to the hotel. The girl puts her thumb out while the guy hangs back. I expect she’ll have better luck than me.
The Buachaille Etive Mòr (‘great herdsman of Etive’) dominates the eastern entrance to the glen — tomorrow’s challenge.
For a moment, the sun appears and lights up the glen, including Beinn a’ Chrùlaiste that runs down to Kinghouse, hidden just beyond the ridge.
The WHW curves round to the hotel from the rear.
The Bunkhouse is well-equipped, reasonably priced and the perfect base for exploring the area. My room has two bunk beds. On checking in, I’m assigned the top bunk. Gear is strewn on the bottom bunk.
I’m glad I decided to cut the mileage today as I’m tired, retiring to the bar for a meal and a pint. The service is speedy despite a large wedding reception in the main restaurant. It’s a pity the beer is not as good as the food. A mixed group of young WHW hikers are making the most of the bar.
I crash out by 10 pm, only to be woken by laughter in the corridor as the youngsters return from the bar. My roommate opens the door and apologises for waking me. It’s no problem as I’m sound asleep again in seconds. I need my rest for the mountains tomorrow.
Date of walk: Thursday 13 March 2025.
Walk distance: 13 miles.
Total distance: 4,865 miles.
I’ve driven through Glen Coe many times to get to the coast but not stopped to explore it. A real shame as it’s a beautiful area so thanks for sharing your photos of it. Are you planning to walk around via Fort William? I decided to use the Corran ferry to avoid the unpleasant section of the A82 up to Fort William having driven it a few times I didn’t want to try and walk it!
The plan is to walk round to Fort William across the moors and mountains and then catch the ferry from Fort William over to Camusnagaul and start on Ardgour and Morvern. It will take more than one trip to complete the inland route as I plan to hike a few Munros on the way. I also need to finish off Mull and a couple of gaps north of Oban. That will keep me busy for the next few months. 🙂
Interesting to see your post today. I’m not much of a through-hiker so if you could pick just two places on the route to stay, and to walk about in for 3 or 4 days, which two places would you pick? I prefer seclusion but of course I’d like access to spectacular trails of around 10 miles (so not much to ask!)
I assume you mean the specific section through Glen Coe to Fort William rather than my entire coast walk — that would be a tough one! I’m afraid I’ve not finished it yet. If you have a car (otherwise it’s a long hike to the start of each walk) then, so far, the Kinghouse Hotel is the best place to base yourself. It’s pricey though, which is why I went for the Bunkhouse. Best to go outside the busy season. I like March as you still get a bit of snow on the mountains. I imagine there are cheaper options in Glencoe village which would do equally well, at the other end of the glen.
We stayed in the Kingshouse Hotel for a weekend a few years ago, a ruby wedding anniversary celebration. It was actually our 41st but the previous year was lockdown! It’s a beautiful view to wake up to.
Lovely. There were weddings there on two days I stayed. It seems their Winter Wedding package is selling well to fill the off-season.
WHW was our first long distance walk as well…..and Buachaille Etive Mòr my first scary Monroe – there was snow and ice on the top, a slippery climb, so we decided to go down the back of the mountain – at the base it was warm enough to strip off and swim in a small mountain pool – heaven.
There was no stripping off this month!