Day 304: Craignure to Salen

A traditional Easter Sunday breakfast should sustain me for a 17-mile hike along the “Torosay Tops” ridgeline.

Due to the limited Sunday bus service, I don’t arrive at Craignure until 10:30 am. An estate road winds gently up the Torosay Hills.

A couple with two dogs strolls ahead of me. I’d expected this section to be busier as there’s a good path to the first summit, and the weather is gorgeous. Everyone must be enjoying their Easter eggs.

I pass the first transmitter station.

The road ends at the open gates of the second station, allowing me to step inside the compound, shelter behind the building from the cold wind and cradle a cup of hot coffee. The dog walkers have vanished. Where did they go? Perhaps these stations are more sinister than they seem — cue visions of mad scientists and unauthorised experiments — so best move on.

This is the first mountain hike without my poles, back at the campsite to avoid having to take down and carry my tent and gear, which will be a good test for my knees since a niggle first surfaced on the South West Coast Path a few years ago.

The views are exhilarating. A snow-capped Ben Nevis is now visible.

Mull’s second-highest peak, Dun da Ghaoithe, offers a spectacular panorama, including my first view of the mighty Cuillin range on Skye, one of the most anticipated destinations on my journey. The path ends here — beyond, only deer trails.

A cairn marks the second summit at Beinn Thunacaraidh, reached via a scree slope.

An eagle soars high above the bleak cairn. The Rough Bounds are spread out to the north. What adventures will they hold?

It’s hard to pick the best route, descending and ascending across rough ground and navigating round lochans, reaching the successive peaks of Beinn Mheadhan, Beinn Creagach Mhor and Beinn Chreagach Bheag. It’s a wild place. I can’t see another soul in any direction.

After 3,500 feet of ascent, it’s time to descend, zig-zagging between crags down steep tussocked slopes. I’m unsure of the route past Maol Buidhe, and there’s still a long way to go, so I follow vehicle tracks in the direction of Glen Forsa, hoping to link up with the track I hiked on my last visit.

The valley is sprinkled with thousands of small mounds of earth, many already holding a tiny tree stem. This woodland creation project aims to plant over 500 hectares of new native broadleaf trees. What a sight that will be. You can sign up for planting work at 12 to 14 pence per tree.

Oh oh! Who erected a deer fence across the vehicle tracks? I’ll have to follow the barrier and hope for the best.

Phew!

It’s a long walk down the glen to the main road, encouraged now and again by small clouds of midges.

Highland cattle block the road. I met them last time, but now they have calves. A car approaches on the road behind me and tentatively clears the way.

After a few miles along the quiet main road, I’m back in the Salen pub for a well-earned pint. It’s 8 pm and too late for food, but one of the chefs comes out of the kitchen to chat after hearing of my walk across the mountain tops.

What a fantastic walk to celebrate passing 5,000 miles. I could never have imagined this when I stepped out on a wet afternoon into the North Kent marshes during lockdown.

Next day

The morning ferry takes me back to Oban for a rest day. Farewell once again to beautiful Mull. I’ll be back.

Date of walk: Sunday 20 April 2025.

Walk distance: 17 miles.

Total distance: 5,002 miles.