The Isle of Kerrera is only 4.7 square miles. It’s a short walk from Oban to join the queue for the 12-passenger ferry, just squeezing into the second group before a woman appears at the last moment to join her friends, booting me out to start a third group, which is my cue for a loud mock protest.
“Ferryman, does she even know those people? Ask her to name them!”
There’s time to chat with the ferryman about other islands I’ve visited. He has friends living on Easdale, where there are no police, allowing regular lock-ins in the pub, including an impromptu gig by one of the Waterboys.

Arriving on the far shore, I follow a road south along the shoreline and into the hills, encouraged by well-placed signs.


Passing the woman who took my place in the queue, she laughs.
“I knew you would overtake us.”
Kerrera Tea Garden is a lovely place to relax over coffee and lemon drizzle cake.

Brave newborn take their first steps, unafraid of walkers close by.

There’s a short diversion to explore Gylen Castle, built in 1582.

Rather than retrace my steps to the road, I hug the coast.

The west side is perfect for wild camping — quiet, sheltered, with fine views across to Mull.

A magic ring of maple trees nestles at the bottom of a valley.

The return path through the hills is the most beautiful section of the walk. Ben Cruachan is visible in the distance.

The island bothy needs more work.

It’s all too soon before I’m back at the ferry to return to the mainland.

A lovely walk to end this trip. You’d be hard pressed to find a short circular walk offering so much.
Next day
On the way home, I stop off at Nottingham with good friends, Jackie and Duncan, to watch Leicester Tigers play Harlequins, joined by Rhys and their children, Matt and Laura. On Sunday, Duncan takes me on an excellent river hike through Dovedale in the Peak District, spotting a peregrine falcon.
Showering and brushing my teeth before dinner, it feels like I’ve swallowed soap, only to realise I’ve squeezed Carex hand wash onto my toothbrush. I get worse as I get older.



Total distance: 5,044 miles.
Looks like a wonderful walk………had no idea there was a British Maple 🤔
I’m not sure what species they were. Could have been Norwegian or Italian. I normally use the PlantNet app. 🙂
Hi Tony, I used to use PlantNet but it’s shit! Try Flora Incognita, it’s free too but much more accurate.
It knows the difference between dandelions and oaks anyway.
Haha! I’ll give it a try. I was not a big fan of PlantNet anyway.
Carex 😅🤣😂
We did that walk a few years ago, it’s lovely. I’m glad to see the tea pot signs are still there. do they still have the corny jokes? (Hello! is it tea you’re looking for? By Lionel Richtea of course.)
I missed the jokes! 😂