Day 31: Abbotsbury to Charmouth

I’m back on the shingle of Chesil Beach, but the tide is going out, so there is comfortable wet sand to walk on.

A well-placed sign suggests I’m going the wrong way, but heading west works for me, keeping the wind and rain at my back.

The River Bride offers a choice between following the path inland to a footbridge or taking the more direct route. I’m pretty wet now anyway, so it’s time to put the hiking poles to good use. Crossing is easy, although the shingle bank on the far side is steeper than it looks. Reaching the top, hundreds of family tents and camper vans, crammed in a field, are battened down against the elements and everyone huddles inside. It all looks rather sad. I’m happy to be outside and walking on, despite the rain.

I soon reach West Bay, passing the cliffs where Broadchurch was filmed.

Climbing Thorncombe Beacon, the flat top of Golden Cap is barely visible through the drizzle.

I stop for a beer at the Anchor Inn in Seatown, where the sun makes a rare appearance. It’s a beautiful location and the Dorset Pale, by local brewers Palmers, hits the spot. The downside is being charged £5.80 for a pint, plus what appears to be a 50p charitable donation added to the bill, without being asked.

Refreshed, it’s time for the long climb up Golden Cap. We came here on a family holiday many years ago, and the ascent seemed more difficult. Perhaps it’s the poles — or the beer? The view at the top is hazy but still wonderful.

My legs are starting to tire, so it’s a relief to reach Charmouth, where I’m parked for the night. The Royal Oak is a lovely local pub, and I feel obliged to work my way through the Palmers range, with a smooth pint of Dorset Gold to round off the day.

Walk distance: 17 miles.

Total distance: 431 miles.

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