A cloak-and-dagger day. The early morning drive takes me past a mist-shrouded Stonehenge and valleys with only church spires rising above the haze. I have an early morning rendezvous on Seaton promenade to hand over legal documents to my sister-in-law, Linda, who recently moved to the area. Mission accomplished, the sun breaks through the clouds when I reach pretty Beer Beach for a breakfast coffee. It is a little early for a pint.
A cheerful family of scarecrows are unlikely to scare the birds away.
The walk’s highlight is a steep descent to the beach through the Hooken Undercliff, formed by a large cliff fall in 1790, surrounded by lush vegetation in a gorge between the chalk cliff and pinnacles.
A hang glider swoops closer to the beach. I wave my hiking poles. They do a small circle over my head and soar away.
The sun gives up as a sea fret takes over, limiting the scope for photos. There are a lot of tiring valleys to navigate. The final climb is up Salcombe Hill. Having trudged up a steep grassy incline, the last thing I want to hear is “194 steps!” from a couple of descending hikers.
Genteel Sidmouth has the first croquet club on my coastal walk. It also has plenty of evidence of recent cliff falls.
Linda and her husband, Howard, have kindly offered me a comfy bed for the night. Much as I love the back of the Viano, how can I refuse a delicious meal and bottle of red wine, although I’m not sure the latter will help my early start tomorrow?
Walk distance: 12 miles.
Total distance: 455 miles.