A change of plans. The remaining Morvern coastline must wait until I have more time. I’ve booked an extra night in a hobbit hut at Sunart Camping in Strontian and will hike locally as the weather allows.
I’m up early and at the ferry terminal for the 07:45 bus to Strontian, only to discover that Google Maps has failed me for the first time in five years of planning, as the bus only runs on school days and it’s half-term holiday. Fortunately, another bus runs on Tuesday and Thursday and is due at 09:30. I return to the bunkhouse to wait in the communal kitchen and spend a pleasant hour chatting with Rebecca, who works for the RSPB and is in the area to check on a tree planting project.
Back at the ferry, a small bus is parked, and the driver appears from the social club. A woman sitting on a bench catches my eye and nods in his direction:
“Don’t worry. He always has a couple of pints before he sets off. Just keep him in the middle of the road.”
They like a good laugh up here.
The bus does not go into Strontian, so the driver drops me at the main road junction, and I walk the remaining miles as the rain begins to fall.
Cafe Sunart serves a delicious cooked breakfast, and I idle away the morning over coffee, enjoying the warmth. I’m also given early access to my hobbit hut, which is bliss, spreading out my gear and sitting in a chair by the open door, cradling a hot cup of tea, watching the rain across the wooded hills, soothed by its pattering on the skylight.
It’s late afternoon when the weather finally breaks, and I’m free to explore the glen up to Ariundle Oakwood.
Hidden in the clouds at the head of the valley lies Sgùrr Dhomhnuill, the highest mountain in Ardgour and my destination tomorrow.
Streams are in full flow.
I cross the river and take the Fairies Road — the fairies are hiding — back to the village where the Strontian Hotel serves fine food and beer.
Next day
The rain has moved forward, so I defer the mountain climb, enjoying another cooked breakfast before a more leisurely exploration of the oakwood after the heavy rain ceases.
I’m not sure I’ve walked beneath so many oak trees — hundreds, possibly thousands.
A pretty waterfall is my favourite spot, sitting for a while, closing my eyes and listening to the water.
On the return leg, I call into the homely Ariundle Centre. A robin hops out from behind a piano. It was rescued when it fell out of a tree as a chick. I order a freshly made scone with a pot of tea and surreptitiously drop crumbs on the floor, but the bird has vanished. The elderly lady who runs the place leaves me in charge while she drives into the village to pick up a friend. I fail to make any sales.
Returning for a pint at the convivial hotel bar, a playful dog scampering at my feet, Loch Sunart bewitches in the dusk. I’m heading that way next month.
Total distance: 5,416 miles.
The Fairies Road – delightful…….
It’s a beautiful area. I hope you get to see some pine martens on your walks through the woods. In the B&B where we stayed they used to come into the kitchen for peanut butter and jam sandwiches.
It is beautiful. As is Ardnamurchan, where I am currently.
Sadly, I did not see any pine martens. I chatted to a lady who ran the local cafe and lived in a small croft. She was not happy with the pine martens that ate her chickens!
Left you in charge! A new career in hospitality beckons…
It was the third time I’d popped in for tea and cakes, so I think she trusted me. 😊
I did that walk a few years ago, it was an absolute delight. Thank you for the video of the waterfall which is exactly as I remember it.
Hi Jayne. The waterfall was such a beautiful spot. Definitely the highlight for me. 🙂