My original plan was to leave the main road from Lochailort railway station at the first opportunity and find my way up into the hills of the remote Ardnish Peninsula. The barman I met yesterday shot that down, as it took him two hours to reach the first summit following a similar route. Instead, I walk along the verge to the path shown on the north of the peninsula.
A signpost marks the start of the short walk to Peanmeanach. The path winds down through birch trees before reaching a bridge over the railway line. I don’t think the sign is necessary.
The path is rough but clear, with fine views to the north.
A long climb finally flattens out with sweeping views across the Sound of Arisaig to the Small Isles.
A ruddy-faced woman, shepherding two excited dogs, approaches from the opposite direction. She’s wearing shorts, despite the chill wind. I’m clearly too soft. This is probably her daily walk.
The trail dips down into a ring of hills, with a large loch in the centre, before descending through a gap on the far side towards the sea. Stepping stones test my balance.
The sun breaks through the threatening clouds as I push through a sea of golden grass to my destination. The light is magical.
I’ve arrived at the village of Peanmeanach, a row of ruined houses and a bothy, now only available by prior booking. I wish I’d stuck to my original plan to camp here, as it’s a wonderful spot, but I decided on a weather-proof trip. There’s a stone bench in front of the bothy, perfect for hot coffee and a Mars Bar. Leaning against the shelter of the wall, the view out across the bay is sublime.
[The bothy] was the last house to be abandoned at Peanmeanach on Ardnish – a peninsula once home to possibly hundreds of people, with the door closed on the bothy for the last time in 1941. The last residents Margaret MacDonald, the old school mistress and her brother-in-law, Sandy, watched their neighbours go one-by-one as war, hardship and emigration pulled the people out of this place.
In 1998, Nellie MacQueen, one of Margaret’s daughters, returned to Peanmeanach for the last time. Then in her 80s, she picked up a stick, walked the line of cottages and said out loud the names of the people who once lived there.
4 April 2021 The Scotsman
Reluctantly, I gather up my gear and head back into the hills. The views are gorgeous as golden hour approaches, one of the benefits of hiking in short days.
The trail completed, I’m back on the A830, briefly stopping to explore a railway viaduct.
Who can complain about road walking with views like this?
There’s still an hour before my train arrives. Thankfully, a well-designed hut on Beasdale Station platform provides shelter from the elements.
Despite my layers and the last of my coffee, sitting still allows the cold to creep into my bones. “Gary” pops up over my earbuds, a song by Stephen Wilson Jr, a recent discovery. He reminds me of early Springsteen and writes the most authentic and beautiful songs. This one is perfect for a warming dance on the platform. It’s just as well no one can see me.
Finally, the train approaches. This is a request stop, and the next train is five hours away, so I’m glad the driver sees me waving. I climb up into the warmth and the promise of a pint in Mallaig. The kind conductor does not charge me for the short three-stop journey.
Relaxing in the pub, what a fantastic walk. I’m not a fan of there-and-back walks, but if you want a short walk with superb views at all times, and a remote and peaceful spot for lunch, this is hard to beat.
Total distance: 5,534 miles.
Great scenery and definitely a walk I’d enjoy. Peanmeanach reminds me of the abandoned village of Smirisary, near Glenuig. I’d always wanted to go there after reading Spade among the Rushes by Margaret Leigh but the one time I set out to walk there the rain was so torrential I had to turn back.
You’d love it, Janet. That’s interesting, as I’m currently planning my February trip and hope to wild camp at a beach shortly after Smirisary. Perhaps that should be my reading material?
Another lovely off the beaten track walk.
I enjoy exploring abandoned villages and thinking about the lives of the people who onced lived there, but my enjoyment is always tinged with sadness at the thought of the demise of the community.
Yes, there are so many to choose from. It’s helpful now that there are so many potted histories on the internet of these abandoned villages, often written by the descendents of people that lived there. Hard lives.
Yes I enjoyed the walk out to Peanmeanach too and was glad I made the effort despite being there and back, it is a lovely spot. I don’t know why they have that sign on the railway bridge. I was trying to work out how you could even get a vehicle there!
I would have loved to spend the night out there, pitched on the flat grass overlooking the sea.
Stunning views! Well worth the hike.
I was lucky to fit these in before the wet weather arrived.