People look at my progress map and find it hard to believe that, at 5,500 miles, I’m only just over halfway round my coastal walk. There are some big islands to circumnavigate. One of those is Skye, with over 400 miles of rugged coastline. Today, I’ll set foot on the island for the first time and explore its southernmost point.
It’s a gorgeous morning for the short ferry journey from Mallaig to Armadale.
The other passengers drive off the ferry, turn right and head north on the main road. I’m the only hiker, turning left on a minor road.
The road rises and falls across the hillside with sweeping views across the Sound of Sleat and barely a car in sight.
The tarmac ends at Aird village, where two cars are parked next to a gate opening to a rough track continuing west.
Soon enough, I catch up with a young couple who invite me to walk with them. I feel a little churlish to decline, but they are moving very slowly, and I have a return ferry to catch.
Cresting the final hill, the Rum Cuillin mountains are tantalisingly close. I hope to climb them later this year.
A few lonely houses are scattered at the end of the track. What must it be like to live in such a remote place? A path cuts through the hills, then climbs up until I see the small lighthouse far down below, perched on the rocks. One final descent, aided by unexpected steps, and I arrive at a small grassy plateau.
After another short climb, I reach the Point of Sleat with Eigg and Rum on the horizon.
I’ve stood on the edge of many wild and remote peninsulas, but here, surrounded by mountains appearing to rise out of the sea, you can lose your grounding.
There’s a grassy ledge in the cliff face that offers shelter from the wind. I could sit here for hours.
The couple following turn back rather than make the long climb down. They’ve missed out as the views are very different down here. The nearby hill no longer obscures the rocky coastline and the famous Cuillin range further north on the island.
The ferry will not wait, so I pack up my things and head back, enjoying new views.
The return crossing is accompanied by a chorus of car alarms, signs ignored.
I’d built Skye up to be one of the highlights of my coastal walk, and it did not disappoint, even though its most iconic features lie far north. It’s my last day tomorrow, just enough time for a similar step into Knoydart.
Total distance: 5,571 miles.
Wonderful photos of wonderful views. Rum looks particularly appealing. Visited Skye a couple of years ago but missed out on this walk.
I smiled when I saw the lighthouse, one of the Northern Lighthouse Board’s aluminium ‘Lattice Towers’, miserable places to work as the wind cuts right through the slatted covering.
Thanks, Richard. I always enjoy your lighthouse insights.
I’m resting in Fort William today after an exhausting day out on the mountains in the gales and snow yesterday. With heavy rain returning tomorrow, I appreciate how lucky I am to enjoy such fine days of walking.
Such stunning views!
I’m sure you’ll love Skye Tony, watching sunsets at Neist point and Duntulm castle are particularly happy memories for me (although the castle was fenced off last time I was there in 2019 unstable now I think)
Thanks, Jim. I’ll need to make a list of all these places to make sure I take them all in over what will be many, many trips.
After a month on the mainland I felt quite homesick seeing those views and even for getting up before dawn for early morning ferry journeys!
I imagine you have enjoyed many beautiful sunrises.