Day 46: Gorran Haven to Portloe

It is 2am. There are voices and laughter. Someone is unzipping the tent.

“What are you doing!”.

I wake, and it takes a few seconds to realise that the zip is firmly closed. My subconscious is clearly still not relaxed with wild camping. The wind is whipping up, and the rain is falling, but I am snug in the tent so fall asleep easily again.

The clouds are still heavy in the morning, so I take the tent down quickly and head for cover to brew up some coffee. The rain duly arrives and the sheep come for shelter. They look a little non-plussed to find me there.

Gorran Haven is slumbering. The Cakebreads bakery has a small outdoor area, sheltered under an awning, which promises a cooked breakfast. My heart sinks when I spot the “kitchen closed due to staff shortage” sign. The owners take pity on the bedraggled figure waiting for opening time and rustle me up a delicious bacon roll with coffee and a croissant.

The rain is on and off all morning. My right boot has split so I squelch along in a sodden sock. Spirits need lifting when I reach the dramatic Dodman Point, which features in the sea shanty Spanish Ladies, first mentioned on Day 42. Time to roar against the howling wind and rain.

I finally make it to Portloe and dry off in the welcome Ship Inn. It is another couple of miles inland to the Veryan campsite and I get the last pitch. The couple next to me have recently walked The West Highland Way and are not selling the Scottish climate. Time for a lovely hot shower and then falling asleep listening to the rain on the tent.

Walk distance: 11 miles.

Total distance: 641 miles.