Other hikers recommended the Fat Apples cooked breakfast, but a positive Covid test has locked them down, so no hot food until Coverack, which is about five miles along the coast. Another energy bar for breakfast then. Yum.
It appears there are Piskies on the campsite. Better check my gear for mischief in the night.
Glad I refilled my water bottle at the campsite. Others were less prepared.
It is damp and misty as I wind my way through the desolate landscape of the Dean Quarries. Approaching Lowland Point, there is a mournful wailing through the mist, so I branch off the path to investigate. There is an adult seal in the distance, lying in the shallow water, with pups a little further out. Is it stranded? Should I call the RSPCA? There is a man walking a labrador, so I beckon him over to get his advice. He is a local and knows the seals well. The mother is just resting. The family of six have been here for over a year. When he swims, the pups are curious and come closer. The sound I heard was the mother warning her pups when he appeared on the path with his dog.
It is raining when I reach Coverack. There are only two covered tables at a cafe. A couple, Jackie and Leigh, kindly let me share their table for a late breakfast roll and pastry. They have stayed at Henry’s Campsite, my destination, several times and loved it.
“Like it was built by the Wombles.”
Sounds fun!
The path after Coverack is very rocky, with boulders to scramble over. The rain starts again when I reach Black Head, so I shelter in the coastguard lookout, sign the visitors book, and take in the spectacular views.
The Poltesco valley is home to Shetland ponies, grazing for conservation purposes.
I pass through the small fishing village of Cadgwith and skirt the Devil’s Frying Pan, a 200 feet deep hollow created by the roof of a sea cave collapsing. It looks great for exploring by kayak.
As I approach Lizard Point there is a sober reminder of the dangers of the sea. The Bugaled Breizh, a French trawler, sank with all hands in 2004, and the tragedy remains unresolved. A 2008 inquiry concluded that a “highly probable cause” was an accident with a nuclear attack submarine. There are recorded incidents of a fishing net caught by a submarine, with the trawler dragged along.
The Lizard Lighthouse marks the most southerly point of mainland Britain.
It is dusk when I arrive at Lizard Point. I ask a chap if he will take a photo and he recoils, saucer-eyed, at the prospect of touching my phone. He actually takes a step back as if I was going to thrust the deadly object at him. Thankfully, someone else is happy to step in.
Lizard village is full of character and has a lovely vibe, even in the failing light. Unfortunately the Top House Inn is not serving food but I grab a beer. Someone nearby is playing Mr. Brightside on a guitar. I eventually find the right path to Henry’s Campsite and it is as quirky as I imagined. I look forward to exploring in the morning. For now, I am shown to a cosy little spot and settle down for the night.
Walk distance: 16 miles.
Total distance: 688 miles.
I remember this as an interesting and varied walk although more old industry than I expected. I remember taking a brief diversion off the coast path there to try and find a better route but didn’t manage to. Looks like you had 4 seasons in one day here!
As to the photographer it’s sad there are still some people around who treat another person a bit like walking toxic waste! I’ve certainly taken photos for people, with their phones or cameras in the last 18 months without any worries!
Yes it was one of those days. Shorts v trousers? Bother with a waterproof or just get wet and dry out? I must have taken my backpack off a dozen times or more on route.