My plan was to get up very early, creating enough contingency time to navigate the “severe” 14 miles to St Ives, and catch the 4pm train home. There is only one small problem. I forgot that sunrise is getting later, so it is still pitch black when I head back down the empty lanes to Pendeen Lighthouse. Where is the start of the path? The limited beam of light from my headtorch only allows me to scan a small area. I can hear the sea to my left below the cliffs, so I stay well to the right. After a couple of false starts through the bracken, I am relieved to rejoin a wide track that I missed earlier.
I move slowly, watching where I place my feet, more so when the wide track ends and becomes a narrow, fern-lined, uneven path, that rises and falls. After an hour, the light slowly starts to improve, and my field of vision extends. I am comforted by the dawn light, the warmth of the sun, and the birds starting to sing. We are not creatures of the night.
It is a glorious morning, with the wonderfully craggy coastline bathed in soft light.
A pheasant walks across my path, stops, and stares at me, only feet away, making sure I have her full attention. Only then do a series of chicks make safe, darting runs across the path behind her. Clever girl.
Zennor Head is gorgeous and the perfect place for a late breakfast in the sun. The turquoise waters are seductive, as described in the local legend of the Mermaid of Zennor.
“Long ago, a beautiful woman occasionally attended services at St Senara’s Church in Zennor. The parishioners were enchanted by her beauty and her voice, for her singing was sweeter than all the rest. She appeared infrequently for scores of years, but never seemed to age. She became interested in a young man named Mathey Trewella, “the best singer in the parish.” One day he followed her home, and disappeared; neither was ever seen again.”
I was hoping the final section into St Ives would be a little easier, but the path remains littered with boulders. I abandon my hiking poles to scramble over the rocks.
My early start pays off, as I arrive in St Ives with a couple of hours to spare before my train leaves. Time for a local pastie. A couple of hopeful herring gulls appear – a rather evil looking adult and a more innocent juvenile. Neither are getting my pastie.
It has been a tough day. It felt more like fell walking, all bogs and boulders, but along narrow paths, constantly ascending and descending. The soles of my feet are sore. I would not like to try that on a wet day, so thank you weather gods. The end of three wonderful days of walking.
Walk distance: 14 miles.
Total distance: 760 miles.
Hi Tony, a lovely section of coast. I generally start off walking in the dark. You may already have a decent Petzl, but may want to think about investing in a light with a larger Lumen, especially if you like making an earlier start.
Check out this:-
https://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/the-knowledge/headtorch-buying-guide.html
I would not buy anthing from Cotswold though, too expensive.
I ‘ve got a couple of Petzl’s one of which cost about £90+, the difference is amazing.
I have a Black Diamond Spot 325, which is 325 Lumens. The Petzls look more powerful. With the days getting shorter, this might be a good investment.
A lovely walk, great photos, and an impressive distance given the difficult terrain. It’s a tricky path, and I wouldn’t like to attempt it in the dark!
Thankfully the path was not too rocky at the start. It was a good experience to help me judge what is possible on the walks to come.