The bus drops me off in Hartland village, along with two other hikers, Mark and Adam. We are heading in opposite directions along the coast, but walk the few miles to Hartland Quay together. More tales of wet weather hiking in Scotland, along the West Highland Way.
It is already after midday, and I have to wild camp tonight. I’m not confident of food or water resupply until I reach Westward Ho! tomorrow night, so best to stock up with delicious fish and chips at the Wrecker’s Retreat. Carrying two litres of water, hot meals to cook, and a new sleeping mat, my pack is up to 14Kg, a jump from the usual 11Kg. For the first time, climbing up the steep hill from the pub, I feel the weight on my back.
I have some negotiating to do before I can pass the gatekeepers.
The sun is glorious. The weather gods are kind, having drowned me when I finished here last time.
My new aluminized sleeping mat is proving to be a great conversation starter. To date, I have relied on an inflatable Therm-A-Rest NeoAir Xlite sleeping pad (3.2R). The R value, for thermal resistance, measures the level of insulation from the cold ground. A 5+ value is recommended for winter, so, in preparation, I added a Therm-A-Rest Z Lite foam mat (2R). It is bulky, and I did not have time to sort out strapping across the top of my pack, so it is stuffed vertically in the webbing, like a silver beacon.
Unfortunately, Hartland Point Lighthouse is completely covered for refurbishment.
A local dog walker thinks I will struggle to make it to Mouthmill Beach before dark. I’m clearly not creating a good image. Where is the phone box for my transformation from bimbling snapper to hiking athlete? I stride off to prove him wrong.
Towards the end of the day, the twin windows of Blackchurch Rock appear, marking my planned campsite.
It is getting dark, as I carefully pick my way down the gnarly, winding path through Brownsham Wood, past an empty house hidden in the trees, to the stream bubbling along the bottom of the valley. The trees are full of pheasants, crowing loudly. Abandoned buildings add to the magical atmosphere.
There is a lovely spot to camp, just behind a low wall, overlooking the rocky beach, with Lundy Island on the horizon, As I pitch in the gloom, I try not to think about the house in the woods. I have watched too many scary movies.
Once the tent is sorted, I brew a coffee, and watch the sunset, before retreating into a warm sleeping bag. Just me, the waves, the pheasants … and the house in the woods.
Walk distance: 11 miles.
Total distance: 904 miles.
Spectacular scenery on your hike and you picked a beautiful spot to wild camp.
Yes, it looked wonderful in the morning light.
Love those cows guarding the gate – they couldn’t have got tighter together if they tried!
I have to confess that two women walked through them first in the opposite direction, so I was pretty relaxed. I don’t really mind cows.
I am impressed by your efforts Tony (and the excellent photographic record). However as a serious planner myself (aka control freak) I am aware that the pre-planning for each section must be immense (and all part of the challenge – and the fun).
Keep on trekking!
It can be a bit of a challenge, that is for sure, but fun. I have had it relatively easy for now, just following the SWCP. I will need to be an expert by the time I get to Scotland!
What a lovely place to camp, and with that wonderful evening light.
It has given me quite a taste for remote spots, although the weather makes a big difference.