My final week on the SWCP, and the weather forecast is grim. I have a short walk today, which is just as well, as two buses to Ilfracombe are cancelled due to staff shortages, meaning a 90 minute wait. Perhaps they are retraining as HGV drivers.
I nip into a bakery to grab a sandwich, but my foam mat, now strapped across the top of my backpack, gets stuck in the narrow doorway, much to the amusement of the lady behind the counter. She unlocks the other door to allow me a more dignified exit. It’s like being a learner driver again.
Damien Hirst’s 66ft high Verity has upset the art world. It may not be great art, but the controversy looks good for business.
I reach a garish sign – “Voted the happiest view in the UK” – courtesy of Watermouth Valley Caravan Park. Presumably voted on solely by visitors to the park. I take that back. It’s a breathtaking view of a tiny cove, surrounded by towering cliffs, reaching out like the giant claws of a beast. A local couple say it looks like Thailand when the sun is out and the tide is in. I can believe it.
It is a pretty, easy going, woodland walk into Combe Martin.
The Dolphin Inn is recommended in my CAMRA guide, and it does not disappoint. The friendly barman steers me away from Doombar, recommending Devon Dreamer. Delicious. So much so, that I order a second, with a very tasty curry. Highly recommended.
As usual, it is dark when I reach Newberry Valley campsite. The young warden is super helpful and drives me in a golf buggy, along the valley, to my pitch spot. Luxury! Although the site closes at the end of the month, he and his wife are spending the winter here for the experience, working on the grounds. Sounds lovely.
Walk distance: 6 miles.
Total distance: 974 miles.
Hi Tony, I must admit I like little of Damien Hirst’s work, except for Verity, which I think is amazing. What a statue to have guarding your harbour entrance, never understood the controversy surrounding this piece of work.
The weather was also very rough when I did this section.
Went to watch the All Blacks play Wales this weekend in Cardiff, was able to re-acquaint myself with Brains. An excellent ale, that I am sure you will enjoy. Cheers
Hope you enjoyed the game, if not the result. I am a big rugby fan. I think I will look up the top 20 ales for Wales and make sure I work through them all on my way round. 🙂
I’d forgotten how beautiful Watermouth cove was. Walked through the campsite and thought it would be a lovely place to stay. Like Allan, I loved Verity, although I must say I would have preferred her without her insides showing.
She was a little scary in certain light.