The trading estate roads are already busy at 7 am, as the overnight parked truck drivers stir in their cabs. I have only one thing on my mind, breakfast from Down’s Bakery. Lingering on the promenade, dog walkers despair, as their unfaithful hounds ignore all recall commands, seduced by the alluring aroma from my bacon and cheese pastry.
It’s not far to the Severn Road Bridge, but the coast path is blocked due to work on the Avonmouth Ecology Mitigation and Flood Defence Project, providing 17 km of new flood defences. This is not what I need, at the start of what is already going to be a challenging day. I’ve not done much research for this week’s walk, beyond finding places to stay, with broad mileages. It’s a delicate balance between doing sufficient preparation to complete the walk, while leaving enough unknown for there to be the joy of discovering unexpected things, and challenges.
There are no diversion signs, so I head inland at Redwick, and try to follow a network of paths marked on my OS map. Some are better than others. I will bring my machete next time!
I navigate from Northwick to Aust, on the inland side of the A403, including a very short section on the verge of the road, to arrive at the magnificent Severn Road Bridge.
The suspension bridge seems to go on forever. It’s hard to take photographs, as the bridge vibrates with the heavy traffic. At the apex, I stand and take in the vastness of the River Severn. There are two memorial plaques, a stark reminder of the dangers of such large construction projects, even in modern times. Four men died during the original construction (1961-1966) and four during the subsequent strengthening works (1986-1991): boat accidents, a collapsing gantry, toxic fumes, and falling into the river.
I’m excited to be crossing into Wales, and celebrate with a jam doughnut, saved from the early morning bakery for the occasion. I get my first view of the Gwent Levels, a network of fertile fields and watercourses, sandwiched between the Severn Estuary and the urban areas of Cardiff and Newport.
The coast path heads West from the bridge, but I don’t want to skip the start of the Wales Coast Path (“WCP”), so turn right under the M48, to be greeted by colourful graffiti art.
The beautiful Old Wye Bridge at Chepstow overlooks the start of the 870 mile long WCP.
A ceramic map, set into the footpath, created by Chepstow potter Ned Hayward, illustrates the counties and birdlife along the coastal route.
I return to the tunnel under the M48, and head west. The WCP is incredibly well-signposted, although some farmland is challenging underfoot.
The path weaves inland, past Mathern church, guarded by King Tewdrig, mortally wounded while defeating the invading Saxons. The sculpture is by local wood artist Neil Gow.
There is a series of sculptures under development, to bring to life the heritage of the Gwent Levels. I find two at Black Rock.
The Engineer, designed by local sculptor Rubin Eynon, celebrates all the men and women who built the two road bridges and the Severn Tunnel, inspired by the 19th century civil engineer Thomas Walker, who undertook the completion of the Severn Tunnel.
The Fisherman, by carver Chris Wood, celebrates the local fishing heritage. For at least 300 years, people have fished for salmon using a traditional lave net, a ‘Y’ shaped wooden frame and net. The lave net fishery at Black Rock is the only one still operating on the estuary.
Passing Caldicot, I’m diverted inland again, round a military firing range, and head to Magor village for my first pint in Wales, Brains SA, in the friendly Wheatsheaf Inn. The rain has arrived, and I leave the pub reluctantly, picking my way carefully in the dark across M4 slip-roads and a roundabout, to the Days Inn motel. Motorway motels are not designed for pedestrian access. It’s been a long day, and my feet and legs ache, but it feels good to be in Wales.
Walk distance: 25 miles.
Total distance: 1,140 miles.
That’s quite a walk. I’m glad you detoured to find the start of the WCP – would be a shame to walk it almost all, but not quite!
I would like to have visited the castle in Chepstow, but these shorter days make it challenging. I will be cheering the passing of the winter solstice in two days time!