There are two things I really want to do on my visit to the Gower Peninsula. The first is to walk out to the end of Worms Head. The name is derived from the Old English word wyrm (‘sea serpent’). It’s only accessible for two and a half hours either side of low tide, which is at 10:30.
It feels good, sitting on top of the Outer Head. It’s only taken an hour, so plenty of time to relax and enjoy the view. Better not fall asleep, like Dylan Thomas, who was forced to spend the night out here.
On the way back, I watch a small colony of seals. There are hundreds of oystercatchers, feeding on the causeway. I find a poor stranded seal pup. I assume it will be free in a few hours, with the high tide, but decide to report it to the local Coastwatch station.
There is a cosy fire roaring inside the station. The watchkeeper explains that under normal circumstances I could come in. I ask to take a photo, and he waves his colleague over. I really wanted a picture of the fire in the background, but they do a great job as volunteers, so it feels churlish to ask the second chap to move.
They have their emergency vehicles on standby.
Rhossili Bay looks magnificent, sheltered by the Down Commons, my planned afternoon walk.
Time for a fish and chips lunch at the excellent Worms Head Inn, relaxing over a couple of beers. I’ve earned it after yesterday’s tough walk. Another Gower Gold, which was delicious, and then I tried the Shipwreck, which was a little grapefruity for me.
A couple of local guys are chatting at the next table. I say chatting. The old chap is garrulous, careering from subject to subject, with barely a pause or connection, to the loud exasperation of his younger friend. He makes me chuckle, so I introduce myself as I leave. I tell them about last night, at the farmhouse, in the dark, with the barking dog.
“Around 6pm?”
“Yes”
“West Pilton Farm?”
“Yes”
“That was my dog, Bess!”
It’s a funny old world. I reluctantly leave the pub, and set off along the bay, towards the Old Rectory, a lonely cottage in the most stunning location.
At the appropriately named Hillend, I turn round, and climb back up Rhossili Down. It’s steeper than I expected. So much for a more leisurely day. I forgot how tiring hill climbs are without hiking poles, which are currently supporting my tent, or perhaps it’s my heavy lunch weighing me down? Just as well I skipped dessert. I’m rewarded with magnificent views.
The serpent is heading out to sea. I think about the seal pup. Swim free little fella.
The path takes me past the concrete foundations of a WW2 radar station, and several lovely ponies, before winding back down to the camp site.
It’s novel to be back at my tent while it is still light. Time for a little reading, over some tasty pasta bolognese. It’s been another wonderful day.
Walk distance: 14 miles.
Total distance: 1,304 miles.
Rhossili Bay and Worm’s Head are truly spectacular. Wonderful photos and I especially love ‘The Serpent’ heading out to sea – though I wouldn’t want to be out there if I missed the tide. Perfect quote from Dylan Thomas.
Thanks Karen. It seems quite a few people have been trapped by the tide. It is a bleak place to spend the night. I can see why poets went there for inspiration.