I’m not sure what to expect today, so I’m packed at 5:30, and back on yesterday’s trail, skirting the lower slopes of Rhossili Down. The light from my head torch reflects the green eyes of sheep, dotted on the hillside. There are no other lights across the bay. I can’t help myself, swivelling round, scanning the path behind me in the dark. The mind plays games.
Reaching the crest of Hills Tor, the dunes of Whiteford Burrows spread out beneath me, shrouded in early morning mist. I take off my backpack and sit — breathtaking.
I descend to the dunes, following a firm track across the sand.
The landscape feels vast; I’m just drifting through it. There is not another living soul out here. It’s so peaceful.
Reaching Whiteford Point, it’s a little more rocky underfoot, and I pick my way out to the water’s edge. Whiteford Lighthouse (built in 1865) is the only cast-iron lighthouse in Britain which stands in the sea. I’m delighted to get so close. This was the other “must do” part of my Gower plans.
I walk back through lovely pine woods, bordering the salt marsh. The sun is now out, and I’m down to my base layer, dripping with sweat. It’s only 9:30.
I follow the sea wall across the desolate Cwm Ivy Marsh.
I did not realise that the path is closed, as it is still shown on my OS map. The sea wall was breached in 2014, and the sea is reclaiming the former pastures. I don’t have time to turn back and take the long way round, so I ease my way down onto the rocks, testing the soft mud carefully with my hiking poles. The bank is steep on the far side of the breach, and it would be impossible to climb up the deep, slippery mud without poles. I’m relieved to make it to the top.
The rest of the walk, understandably, struggles to meet the morning highs, being a long and muddy trek along the edge of several marshes, followed by a road section round Crofty, then up into pretty hills, and down into Gowerton, for the train home.
It’s been the most magical few days.
Walk distance: 21 miles.
Total distance: 1,325 miles.
Amazing once again Tony. The breached wall reminds me of our very own Braunton Burrows in North Devon (which you passed many moons ago), also left to be reclaimed by Nature. It looks like you’ve really enjoyed this most recent section!
Thanks Simon. Yes, I remember Braunton. I was really lost for words on Whiteford Burrows. I was wondering if it was a taste of what Scotland will be like in the early mornings. A haunting beauty. The early morning mist helped!
Hi Tony, yes the northern shore of the Gower was not as scenic or easy to pass along as the south. Back in 2016, I also had to clamber across the breached sea wall.
Hi Alan. I guess at some point that breach will become impassible. I had high expectations for the Gower, and it surpassed them easily. Wonderful place.
Looks absolutely amazing. One of the aspects of long distance walking is being totally on my own. I’m often asked if I’m not afraid to walk on my own? What’s there to be afraid of? There’s not a soul about. Things that worry me…certainly, but afraid? Nope. In fact I found Hadrian’s Wall to be a bit too ‘busy’.
Shame about the seawall breach, I’m guessing it would make a long detour necessary…
Fantastic photos
Thanks Cindy. Yes, I enjoy hiking in the wilds on my own. It’s also nice to chat at the end of the day in the pub.
Great photos again Tony…..as usual.
Thanks Mike. Lucky with the weather. Five days of rain forecast this week!
Fantastic photos Tony, they really provide a new perspective on this section of the path particularly at Whiteford Burrows. Enjoying following your journey.
Thanks Rich. Look forward to following in your footsteps.
Incredibly beautiful photos, the early morning mists at Whiteford Burrows and the lighthouse being extra special.
Thanks Karen. It was a special day, one of a growing number of favourites.