I may not see the coast today, as the path heads down the River Towy and back up the River Taf. It’s also very misty, which is not great for a pre-dawn walk along a long road section. I’m happy to reach woodland, although there are dangers here too.
I pass a farmer, working in his yard.
“Early start eh? Don’t get lost in the mist! Walking to Llansteffan?”
It’s never a good sign when someone asks if your planned lunch stop is your final destination.
“No. St Clears.”
“Oh! You’d better crack on then!”
Moving swiftly along, I catch fleeting glimpses of the River Towy.
There is a wonderful holloway leading down to LLansteffan, overlooked by its castle. These ancient pathways, worn down by feet, hooves, and cartwheels, were often pilgrim or trade routes.
There is a coffee van in the town park, serving irresistible carrot cake. A man at the next table asks if I’m walking the pilgrimage trail. I did not know there was one. I explain my coastal walk, and he tells me his wife would have loved to meet me. She lost her son recently, and took seven weeks to solo walk the 500 mile Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trail, to help her through her grief. It’s a common theme among people I meet; the healing power of walking the land.
It begins to rain, so we head our separate ways, and I walk up the hill, past the castle, which is sadly completely shrouded in mist. The surrounding Sticks Woods were, historically, the setting for an outdoor stage, with singing and music, now captured in a steel and iron sculpture.
I am staying at the Travelodge in St Clears and have the usual problem trying to reach it on foot, ending up high on a steep bank, above a busy dual carriageway. Fortunately, there is a pub nearby, for my traditional end of hike pint; this time a refreshing Brains SA Gold.
Walk distance: 19 miles.
Total distance: 1,379 miles.
Although the weather was not so pleasant for walking you have still caught some lovely atmospheric photos.
‘Round or Through’ or over maybe??
Over? My hurdling days are long gone, if they were ever there! 🙂
Nineteen miles in a day is pretty good going. Well done!
Thanks Phil. I’m gradually getting used to longer distances. It depends a lot on terrain and how muddy it is underfoot. The miles always seem to get longer at the end of the day. 🙂
Well done on another completed section and still clocking up the miles! It was a very murky morning, we weren’t too far away on the day, visiting Kidwelly Castle. From St. Clears towards Laugharne has a section that is very heavy going so you may need to channel some Phil Bennett inspiration to sidestep your way across some fields!
Thanks Rich. Kidwelly Castle looked well worth a visit. I met a lady on the day of that next stretch who, when I told her where I had walked from, just said “the swamp!”
The ‘trespassers will be composted’ sign made me smile. Misty days are atmospheric but not so nice to be walking on, damp and cold. I couldn’t walk nineteen miles in one day, the most I’ve done in recent years is nine and that was a struggle.
Five minutes after passing that sign I regretted not taking a photo and was tempted to walk back. I had in mind a separate page with a montage of all the amusing “no trespassing” signs I pass. Perhaps one for later.