The tent is bedraggled after a wild night but clearly in better shape than me as I spend several minutes rummaging for my beanie hat only to discover it on my head. I need coffee.
It’s a glorious morning, despite the cold wind sweeping across the exposed embankment path that snakes across the salt marshes. I meet a guy training for the Montane Spine, a 268-mile race along the Pennine Way. Norfolk is not the best place to replicate race conditions.
The empty marshes give way to pretty Wells-next-the-Sea, teeming with Saturday sunshine strollers and children crabbing on the harbour wall. The coffee shops are tempting. I need a boost as today is a challenging 30 miles.
Holkham Bay is gorgeous, offering shady pine woods …
… and beautiful sandy beaches. No wonder it’s so popular.
The trail loops several times to avoid the busy A149. Reaching Burnham Overy Staithe, it’s hard to walk past a cosy boat club full of people clinking wine glasses and head back out into the cold wind for another circuit round Norton Marsh.
On the final loop from Thornham village, there’s an exciting sign for “Seahenge”, but the beach is empty as the 4000-year-old Bronze Age timber circle was excavated and moved to a museum. I make it to Old Hunstanton just before sunset.
The stunning “Candy Cliffs” are bathed in warm light — white chalk overlays red limestone.
I arrive at Hunstanton Camping & Glamping campsite in the dark. Nigel, the owner, is welcoming despite the late hour and allows me to pitch for free. It’s a lovely little site. My favourite day in Norfolk so far.
Next day
Always nice to see the campsite in daylight.
I’m soon back on the embankment running to Snettisham. There are charred trees and blackened earth from fire damage in the July heatwave, but thankfully there are already signs of green shoots appearing.
Sandringham Estate lies ahead. Some fellow coast walkers ignored the “No public access” signs on the marshes without any trouble. Other hikers were escorted off the land and forced to backtrack. After a tough day yesterday, I want a relaxed walk so follow the Iceni Way inland.
The public footpath does pass through pretty woodlands in Sandringham Estate, so I pop in for tea at the cafe, but Paddington is nowhere to be seen.
The rest of the walk is along a tarmac cycle route, passing through the attractive Castle Rising village and the suburbs of King’s Lynn where wild animals still roam.
It’s still early evening when I reach the Travelodge and my CAMRA guide recommends a nearby pub. It’s tucked away down a side street and definitely a local’s boozer. I can barely squeeze in and everyone else looks like they’ve been here all day, ordering doubles of Jack Daniels at 5pm. I only stay for a quick pint before exploring the historic quayside.
Walk distance: 47 miles.
Total distance: 2,245 miles.
Thats some mileage p/day
It was a push with the shorter days, but at least it was flat. 🙂
Your fairly ripping through East Anglia Tony! I ventured inland through Sandringham and emerged at the road junction where HRH DOE had his ‘prang’. I carefully noted where the Land Rover (?) ended up and managed to salvage bits of his broken windscreen – now stored in a little tin box and regarded as a family treasure. Lol
I think it’s easier when you camp and don’t have to worry about transport issues at the start/end. Love the Royal story. I was more worried about being hunted down by corgis! 🙂
The cliffs at Hunstanton are lovely, and it is Norfolk’s only Westward facing beach, so gets the late afternoon sunshine. There used to be an eccentric local who went out every day and organised the stones on the beach to mimic the coloured zones on the cliff above. He died some years ago, and I guess the stones on the shore are all jumbled up now. I managed to walk through the Sandringham section of beach unchallenged – coming from Hunstanton – but can honestly say I had no idea it was the Royal estate!
I was tempted to follow in your footsteps but did not fancy being bundled off to The Tower. 🙂
What a glorious light showing up the cliffs at Hunstanton. I didn’t expect you to get round Norfolk so quickly, as I’ve spent a day just doing small sections of the Norfolk coast!
That light made my day. There were some photographers there with tripods although they were pointing out to sea when I passed.
Great photos again Tony. You are really storming through East Anglia. We chanced it and “trespassed” through the Sandringham estate and saw lots of hares & deer.
The first day is particularly beautiful. Love the candy cliffs. And yes, Baldrick would be in heaven.
We are starting our walk around the coast next weekend in Kings Lynn but I can’t find much info about the iceni way! Is it well sign posted? Beautiful pics by the way.
Hi Mair. Thanks for your comments. The Iceni Way is not signposted or if it is I missed the signs. The section I walked follows a cycle route which is well-signposted. Enjoy your walk.
Really good to meet you today Tony,great to meet a fellow walker.
Hope you manage to get to Gibraltar Point and look forward to reading about it.
Hi Margaret. Lovely to meet you and David today. You were right about the long grass on the outer embankment! I tripped over some brambles at one point. As for Gibraltar Point….. 🙂