Scarborough is demure in the pre-dawn light, the flashing lights and clattering coins of amusement arcades replaced by the silent glow of ornate street lamps.
Whitby lies 23 miles north, the port where Bram Stoker’s Dracula first arrived to these shores, and lacking a crucifix I must reach the safety of the YHA before darkness falls.
Surfers unload their boards from a convoy of camper vans, old buses and new age vehicles parked round the quiet North Bay.
Freddie Gilroy and the Belsen Stragglers, a steel sculpture by Ray Lonsdale, looks out across the bay. Freddie experienced the horrors of liberating the Belsen concentration camp, spending his 24thbirthday there and wept on every subsequent birthday.
One last glance back at Scarborough Castle, beautifully silhouetted across the bay, before climbing up Scalby Ness.
I’ve not passed a seat or a person for miles. There’s a welcome bench at the top of the next hill. Suddenly, a dog walker appears from the other direction with a couple of yapping dogs and grabs it. An ominous sign.
The clifftop path drops into Hayburn Wyke, a wooded valley lined with gnarly oaks covered with moss and ferns.
A pretty waterfall tempts me down to the rocky beach for a short break. A man sits on a boulder further along the shore, taking photographs. I wave but leave him his space.
What’s with this crazy weather? Back on the clifftop and approaching Ravenscar, the town that was never built, I’m pummelled with hailstones. Either I had my head down or there’s not much to see at Ravenscar from the coast path, as I soon find myself passing a visitor centre and heading through pleasant woodland, before arriving at a badly eroded section.
These Yorkshire miles are long miles. If I’m not sliding in the mud, it’s trying to suck the shoes off my feet.
Pretty Robin Hood’s Bay beckons. Winding steps lead down and down.
At the bottom of the staircase, a chap is cleaning his car.
”Where have you come from?”
”Scarborough. It’s been a muddy old day.”
“Going to Whitby? You’ll enjoy that. Even more muddy and a lot of ups and downs!”
Good Lord — more?
The Bay Hotel marks the end of the Coast to Coast path. It used to offer a free pint to hikers completing the trail but now it’s only a half. Long way for a half. I don’t chance my arm.
Dusk approaches and I’m still a fair way from Whitby. There’s a flat cinder cycle track further inland which would be quicker, but I stay on the coast path and get my reward.
My accommodation is right next to the wonderfully gothic abbey, perched high above the town. Is that a bat?
The YHA is much busier than expected. My room consists of two bunkbeds and both the bottom bunks are taken, one covered with a worrying pile of carrier bags. The occupant arrives shortly after, looking a little worse for wear, and we have one of those conversations where he asks me the same question several times, too drunk to remember the answers. This should be a fun night. At least my blood remains my own.
Next day
There’s a small community of round Britain coast walkers, and I finally get the chance to meet the lovely Blue Wilson in her home county. She’s hiking for two excellent environmental charities: Justgiving – Teambluewilson. I’m given a guided tour of the town and we’ll hopefully get the chance to hike a bit of Scotland together.
Down by the harbour, the weather turns horribly, with horizontal rain and wind.
I walk a few miles along the beach to Sandsend, head down into the elements. For some reason my waterproofs fail me for once, my hiking trousers wet beneath the overtrousers. I’m cold and wet. Not a time to plough on. I jump on a warm bus to Middlesborough. I’ve been carrying a cold for a while and feel shivery, so perhaps it’s caught up with me, falling asleep at 6 pm. Another gap to be filled. They are mounting up but I’d rather enjoy this wonderful coastline in fairer conditions.
Walk distance: 27 miles.
Total distance: 3,543 miles.
You certainly cover a lot of miles in the day which looks to be a challenge in winter. Whitby especially was lovely. Glad you got to meet another coastal walker. So far I’ve only met one on my walks.
Whitby was lovely. There are not many long distance coastal walkers outside of the SWCP and the WCP. I’ve met about half a dozen so far. Hopefully more over the years ahead. 😀
How lovely for you to have met Blue Wilson. We were heading towards each other in north Scotland this spring, but never managed to meet. I love this area of the coast, shame about the weather.
Yes, lovely coastline. Up there with the SWCP and West Wales. There is still time for our paths to cross as I work up the East Coast! 🙂