Days 268 & 269: Burghead to Nairn

After a much-needed long sleep, the bus drops me back at Burghead for a more leisurely day, with plenty of time for a coffee before exploring the town properly. The visitor centre balcony has sweeping views over the Moray Firth, which is dolphin-free this morning, although a walk to the end of the pier might reveal something.

Standing at the end of the pier, enjoying the sun and cool breeze, I feel more relaxed than yesterday. The harbour was built in 1807 by the prolific Thomas Telford — the “Colossus of Roads“. Three stone warehouses remain, originally storing grain bound for Europe, now converted into apartments.

Unfortunately, my left shin hurts, surfacing on the last trip, likely due to long miles on hard roads. I hope it’s not shin splints. I’ve had previous problems at the top of my ankle due to pressure from tight laces on my boots, which clears within 24 hours, so try a different lacing. Rather than follow the Moray Coast Trail through the forest, I descend to the soft beach, following the line of tank traps to the burn flowing out beneath Millie Bothie.

The forest looks pretty, so I switch inland, finding a busy car park with an ice cream van. Double cone with a flake? Don’t mind if I do.

The woodland and beach are beautiful, so I keep swapping, eventually passing beneath Kinloss Airfield.

The beach runs to bustling Findhorn, where I’m forced onto the road for the final few miles to Forres train station, which is not helping the pain in my shin. I walk on the softer verge where possible.

Evil giant hogweed encroaches on a country lane. The sap is phototoxic, reducing skin protection from sunlight and causing severe skin burns. Not a plant to push through.

The Benromach Distillery sits close to the train station.

The train takes me to Inverness and the University campus, home for a week. There are six student rooms in a flat with a communal kitchen. It’s clean and comfortable, which is all I need. Fingers crossed, a good night’s rest will sort out my leg.

Date of walk: Thursday 18 July 2024.

Walk distance: 14 miles.

Total distance: 4,564 miles.

Next day

It’s a short walk from the campus to a retail park and a bus back to Forres. A new prison is under construction next to the campus. That will enhance the prospectus.

Leaving Forres, my left shin hurts already, so I’m forced to change plans, find a cross-country route off the road and reach the soft trails through Culbin Forest as quickly as possible.

I’m limping despite the soft ground. My slow pace makes me easy prey for the horseflies, out in force on a hot day in the damp forest. Wearing a T-shirt and shorts, I’m eaten alive so layer on the Smidge. The horrors still manage to bite through my T-shirt. The woods echo with the sound of cursing. Hopefully, there are no families nearby with young children.

The trees gradually thin out and a relieving breeze picks up as I near the coast. Finally, breaking the tree line, I throw down my pack with joy, able to stop for the first time since I entered the forest — time for lunch. The nearby lagoon is criss-crossed with poles, installed to prevent gliders from landing in WW2.

I’m surprised to have company at this deserted spot, although my sandwiches are probably the main attraction.

Signs request walkers to move inland to protect the salt marsh.

The track becomes more boggy, surrounded by scary Russula mushrooms.

Approaching Nairn, the path passes through a static caravan park. A small campsite sits at one end next to a sewerage works. People seem happy to sit outside with their barbecues.

Fishertown is a cute grid of tiny streets and cottages. Finding a pub near the bus stop, I’m happy to take the weight off my leg and enjoy a pint before returning to Inverness.

Hobbling back to my room from the bus stop, does this mean the end of my trip? I thought I’d found a foolproof activity, avoiding all the injuries incurred from badminton, squash and running — sigh.

Stepping into the shower, my shoulders are covered with clegg bites. Baggy clothing is good but they feast where the fabric is pulled tight against the skin. Not the best of days.

Next day

I’m reluctant to abandon the trip, so spend the day resting at the nearby cinema and visiting Leakey’s, a quirky second-hand bookshop in the city centre.

Next day

My leg is still painful, so time to return home and rest. I’m worried about the medical advice on the internet. The NHS website says recovery in weeks, while others say 3-6 months. I hope it’s the former, as my hiking trip to the Lofoten Islands is booked for the last week in August. One thing’s for sure, once I’ve healed I’ll cut down my daily mileage, especially when walking on hard roads, which seems to be unavoidable on the Scottish coast.

Date of walk: Friday 19 July 2024.

Walk distance: 14 miles.

Total distance: 4,578 miles.