Fimmvorduhals Trail

Bells are ringing. I’ve not fallen down a crevasse and suffered a blow to the head. These bells ring every hour. My B&B in Reykjavik is overlooked by the mighty Hallgrímskirkja church.

Tomorrow, I travel east to hike the linked Laugavegur and Fimmvorduhals trails, leaving me a little time tonight to explore the compact city.

Next day

The short summer season ends mid-September when snow arrives, so the trails are busy, but hopefully less so in the final two weeks. The trade-off is the greater risk of bad weather. Most people hike north to south, starting in the mountains and ending at the sea. I’m walking in the opposite direction to immerse myself in the empty landscape each morning.

Two coaches depart the main bus terminal at 7 am. The first, heading north to Landmannalaugar, is packed. There are only four of us on the other bus, heading south to Skogar: two Swiss guys and a Canadian, Leila, all considerably younger than me.

The weather forecast is not promising, and the long journey along the coastline fills us with apprehension as the bus slows to a crawl in patches of dense mist, rain pounding the windscreen. We are dropped off at the mighty Skogafoss waterfall, a popular attraction and the start of the Fimmvorduhals trail.

I’m already wet from the rain, so a little spray won’t make much difference.

The path climbs steeply next to the waterfall, following the Skoga River as it winds through plunging canyons. Freyr, the Norse god of sunshine and fair weather, favours me as the rain eases off and blue sky appears.

I meet the first hikers of the day walking in the opposite direction. Clambering out to the edge of another huge waterfall, the view is otherworldly. I don’t think I’ve ever taken so many photos this early on a trail. At this rate of progress, it will be dark before I reach my campsite.

There are over 25 waterfalls to enjoy on the ascent.

Reaching a rocky plateau, a small bridge spans the river, at which point the mossy greens are replaced by a barren black volcanic landscape. It’s a bleak trek up to the Baldvinsskali hut where I rest briefly on the steps before crossing a glacier buried beneath black soil, edging cautiously round a small crevasse.

The trail leads down an icy slope before a steep climb up a rocky cliff. I edge down slowly, breaking through the ice with my poles.

Halfway down, I’m struggling. The slope is steeper than it looked, and the ice is wet and treacherous. My only option is to sit and slide down. At the bottom, soaking wet, I look back to find a couple watching me from the top of the slope. They give me a thumbs-up before retreating to find an alternative route, which will not be easy.

Reaching the highest point on the pass between the glaciers, the terrain changes once again, to a rocky red and black lava field. A volcano erupted in 2010, forming two new mountains — Magni and Modi — named after the sons of Thor.

I’m walking across one of Earth’s youngest landscapes.

Cresting another hill, the most wonderful panorama unfolds. A huge plateau, scored by the trail, surrounded by valleys coated in luminous lime green moss. Perhaps it’s fatigue, but I’m suddenly overcome with emotion — unforgettable.

I descend through magical Gooaland — “The Land of the Gods” indeed.

Time to pack away my poles and traverse a rocky slope via chains.

After the chains, a narrow ridge leads onto the plateau.

Having crossed the plateau, it’s a relief to begin the final descent into Thorsmorsk valley.

I’m weary and almost finished, but the trail still demands full concentration, crossing the narrow Cat’s Spine Ridge.

I tumble into Basar campsite on the valley floor, pitching my tent in a lovely sheltered spot among the trees. Leila arrives shortly after, but there’s no sign of the other guys.

I’m so tired. That was one of my most challenging hikes, climbing over 4,000 feet with a full pack. I’d not fancy that in wet and windy weather. The original plan was for a local hike in the mountains tomorrow, but my body is telling me that’s a crazy idea. We’ll see.

What a magnificent trail. Probably my best ever day’s hiking.

Walk distance: 16 miles.