Having crept out of the hut early, trying not to disturb the sleepers, I’m soon enjoying wonderful views back to the lake, pressed beneath ominous clouds.
A Japanese man struggles to take a selfie, balancing his phone on a rock and dashing to stand precariously on an overhang. I step in and we do the usual exchange.
Sulphurous steam drifts across the valley. The air is damp and wet clay clings to my boots.
The path rises and falls through endless small gulleys, the earth a riot of colours.
After a few hours of climbing, Hrafntinnusker hut stands at 3,600 feet, the highest on the trail. The campsite is brutally exposed and the ground hard, with low rock walls offering little protection from the wind. The place is deserted.
A snow bunting hops across the ground before vanishing under a hut.
Resting outside the hut, a 4×4 arrives up a rough track and a large Norwegian guy comes over to chat. This is his 16th year in Iceland, keen on drone photography. When not in Iceland he’s in New Zealand panning for gold. Who knew such things still happened? He mentions hot dogs, soup and beer down in Landmannalauger. I get a little over-excited.
“You’ll be running down the mountain!”
It’s a typical cloudy mountain peak, but the trail is well-marked, including a short section across a snowy slope.
Descending, breaking through the cloud line, steam from hot springs drifts between beautiful multicoloured rhyolite mountains.
I’m almost tempted to slip in.
It’s not hard to see why this geological region is so popular with photographers. The colours are gorgeous.
I still don’t understand why most people hike in the opposite direction. What a finale.
The most recent lava eruption scars the landscape.
The lava flows down and fills the valley floor.
The final section of the trail winds through the lava field to the campsite.
Given the storm, I’ve booked a bed in the hut. It’s a large attic with about 20 people lying side by side on mats like sardines. Hope I don’t get a snorer next to me.
I meet Lukas from Lithuania, who is almost at the end of his incredible 585 km trek across Iceland. That puts my short hike into perspective. He’s also hiked the Arctic Circle Trail, so it’s cool to swap stories.
Next day
Rough night — snorer next to me. I spent a long time listening to his snoring patterns.
While other hikers are heading out on local trails, I have the day to rest before the bus back to Reykjavik, enjoying the geothermal pool to myself until a young couple arrive and the guy jumps in naked.
A large tent is available for campers to cook and eat in. A big tour party is preparing to leave for the trail, going through the introductions ritual. The guide asks if I want to help out and join them for a second hike. I pass. I don’t envy them as the wind is already picking up. The warden’s assessment is “miserable but not dangerous, possibly with snow”. Someone asks if they should put their hat on. This is not going to end well.
A cute sheltered square of buses acts as a local store and cafe. A lovely young couple run it, living in the fourth bus at the back.
I while away the hours before my bus with hot soup and coffee with whisky, sheltered from the cold wind blowing across the campsite.
Arriving back in Reykjavik, trying to find my guest house, a woman comes out of a house to her car parked in a long drive. I stand at the end of the drive.
“Excuse me.”
She screams and jumps into her car. I hold my palms up and back away.
She gets out and yells at me.
“YOU SCARED THE SHIT OUT OF ME!”
“WHAT DO YOU WANT?”
“My apologies. I’m looking for the Freyja Guesthouse”.
“IT’S NOT HERE!”
She gets back in her car.
Wow, that’s a first.
After finding the right house, two doors down, I pop along the road to Cafe Loki for a delicious traditional meal: homemade flatbread with smoked trout and cottage cheese followed by lamb shank. Gazing out the window, the winds rage and the rain lashes down. I made it just in time.
Back at my digs, the owner tells me that Screaming Lady came round to apologise. She was stressed out with her kids when I startled her.
The end of an unforgettable trip. I’ve just realised the trail, despite being the most famous, is not the one in my 100 Hikes of a Lifetime, which means I have an excuse to return!
Walk distance: 15 miles.
Total distance: 35 miles.
Great photo’s as usual Tony….that trail looks too hard core for my knees but thanks for the blog & sharing the photos. BTW what camera/lens do you use ? Cheers, Mike
Thanks Mike. I just use my iPhone. I’d like to have a proper camera but it’s a trade-off with keeping the weight down. Plus the phone is so easy to use, especially when the weather is dodgy.
Very good photos on the Iphone Tony….I know eaxctly what you mean about the weight trade off. I just use my phone’s camera nowadays too.