Cal leaves while I’m barely stirring. I rashly planned a second mountain hike today, but the gloomy weather and my aching legs suggest a more gentle return to the coast. Waiting for the bus to Benderloch, I chat with the […]
Day 289: Benderloch to Oban Read More »
A new year begins. There was no need for resolutions — my challenges multiply happily on their own. The further north I push, the more difficult the logistics, especially without a tent or a car. Oban offers a perfect base,
Day 288: Ben Cruachan & Stob Diamh Read More »
The highlight of a short summer family holiday in Crete is a 16km hike down the Samaria Gorge from the mountain plateau at 1,200m to Agia Roumeli, a small fishing village on the Mediterranean Sea. Despite the scorching weather and
Skipping the section from Berriedale to Whaligoe due to the snow puts John o’Groats within my reach. Sunny weather is forecast, so what better way to finish the hiking year? My pronunciation of Keiss has improved from yesterday as the
Day 287: Keiss to John o’Groats Read More »
More snow is forecast, so I’ll take the bus north to the village of Keiss and walk back to town. Ice cracks under my boots as I cross the River Wick to the bus stop. The bus driver corrects my
Day 286: Wick to Keiss Read More »
A 7 am knock at my door. In the absence of a dining room, the owner wheels in a cooked breakfast trolley. Is he wearing pyjamas? “I don’t get this at home.” My book for this trip is Between the
Day 285: Whaligoe to Wick Read More »
It’s a beautiful morning, the sun shining on the fresh overnight snow. Despite the forecast of a clear day, an early snow flurry adds to my load. Hardy fishermen work on their boats. The John o’Groats Trail follows the shore
Day 284: Helmsdale to Berriedale Read More »
Snow fell during the night. Time-travellers leave no footprints. Crossing the golf course at Brora, fresh snow crunching under my boots, I’m giddy among childhood echoes. I choose the beach rather than a narrow icy strip between a stone wall
Day 283: Brora to Helmsdale Read More »
Limited by Sunday public transport options, I have a leisurely short walk today, leaving plenty of time to chat over breakfast with John, the Airbnb owner. He worked for 30 years on a boat safety crew for the rigs, retrieving
Day 282: Golspie to Brora Read More »
I’m the only person stepping down from the early morning Wick train onto a wet platform at Tain. Arctic showers are forecast to sweep across the Highlands, and light rain is already falling so it’s on with the waterproofs. There’s
Day 281: Tain to Golspie Read More »