My dawn friend returns, trimming the grass to a perfect height for camping. Still in my sleeping bag, leaning out of the tent, we stare at each other. The weather is perfect for climbing the Paps, three cone-shaped scree-clad mountains, […]
Day 257: Paps of Jura Read More »
Gales are forecast later in the week. I’d planned to walk to Cruib Lodge bothy today, but I need to climb the Paps in reasonable weather, so I’ll skip the bothy, hike back to the main road and catch the
Day 256: Glengarrisdale Bay to Craighouse Read More »
Clammy sea fret presses in on all sides. The view is gone but not the midges, clustering as I pack and head back down the trail, keen to move and leave them behind. I don’t mind walking in the haar.
Day 255: Kinuachdrachd to Glengarrisdale Bay Read More »
The island of Jura has around 200 inhabitants over 142 square miles, making it one of the most deserted places I’ve hiked. Writing in a remote house in the north, George Orwell described it as “in an extremely un-get-atable place”.
Days 253 & 254: Tarbert to Kinuachdrachd Read More »
On the final morning of this trip, I discuss my Oa hike with the cheerful lady serving coffee and croissants at the B&B. She took her children to the beautiful beach at Port an Eas, although the weather was rarely
Day 252: Islay to Tarbert Read More »
The Oa peninsula is home to golden eagles, soaring above tall cliffs. There’s no footpath along the coast, so the plan is to hike cross-country, linking up with farm tracks, to the American Monument and the road bisecting the headland.
Day 251: Oa peninsula Read More »