I woke twice in the night with a bad headache, which is rare. Most likely dehydration, compounded by the beer before I fell asleep, or a lack of sugar, as I did not eat enough yesterday. A midnight KitKat and

The bright moonlight woke me in the night before the soothing sound of the sea lulled me back to sleep. I’m refreshed, waking to the third beautiful morning in a row, ready for the most challenging day of my trip

The next two days take me round the Mull of Kintyre. I’m eager to explore the most remote part of the peninsula. Sitting on a bench by the harbour, enjoying an early morning coffee and bacon roll, passers-by are friendly

After prolonged rubbing in sodden socks yesterday, my small toe needs protective zinc tape. My stomach is much happier, treated to an exceptional silver service breakfast. How will it cope when the porridge returns? The weather is transformed. The apocalyptic

Over the next nine days, I’m hiking round Kintyre before sailing to the tiny Isle of Gigha, my first Hebridean island and then to Islay in search of golden eagles. I’d like to follow the 100-mile Kintyre Way, zig-zagging across

It’s a glorious morning to explore a rainforest. A small group of people wait for the ferry to Portavadie. One man has a backpack, which leads to chatting on the open deck. Stuart is also walking the Cowal Way, skipping

It rained all night and mist lies on the hills. There’s the consolation of warm boots and clothes from the drying room. Last night, I entered the campsite through a tiny gate in the trees. Leaving via the main entrance,

My sleeping pad slides down the slope and I slip off the pad — again. It’s past midnight, but I’m startled to see the lake so clearly, bathed in moonlight, the stars piercing bright. A moment to enjoy with a

The Cowal Way — shrewdly renamed in 2018 as The Loch Lomond and Cowal Way — runs for 57 miles from Inveruglas on Loch Lomond, through my tent pitched at the five-mile marker, southwest across the Cowal Peninsula, to Portavadie