Lofoten: Day 3
I’m woken in the dark by tent walls shaking in the wind and quickly close the flaps against the rain blowing down the mountain pass. It’s 3 am. The wind gusts, up to 45 mph, bend the broken pole despite […]
Lofoten: Day 2
The tail of the storm passed in the night. Opening the tent flap to a cheerful blue sky, what a magical transformation. Wearing only shorts and a warm jacket, I stroll down to the pristine beach, barefoot on the cool
Lofoten: Day 1
Lofoten is an archipelago in Norway, sitting just above the Arctic Circle. The Long Crossing traverses the islands, a loose grouping of trails, rough paths and roads. Given my recent shin splints, I’m only hiking a dramatic section across Moskenesøya
Isle of Grain Battery
The Isle of Grain is not on the Saxon Shore Way, so I missed it when I started my coastal walk. I want to explore the mid-19th century offshore gun tower at the mouth of the River Medway. It’s only
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Days 268 & 269: Burghead to Nairn
After a much-needed long sleep, the bus drops me back at Burghead for a more leisurely day, with plenty of time for a coffee before exploring the town properly. The visitor centre balcony has sweeping views over the Moray Firth,
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Day 267: Buckie to Burghead
What chump carries a hardback book on a hiking trip? Marnie and Michael, fumbling along the Coast to Coast Walk, wormed their way into my heart over 74 pages, so I couldn’t part with You Are Here — a recent
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Day 266: Banff to Buckie
Banff Castle sits across the road from my accommodation, guarded by tree spirits. It reminds me of the Frank Bruce Sculpture Trail I visited on the East Highland Way. A gentle cycle path meanders to Whitehills. Tiny birds sprint across
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Day 265: Fraserburgh to Banff
The exposed road snakes along the coast to Rosehearty, directly into the driving wind and rain. Leaving the town, a rugged coastal path passes a former RAF bombing control tower, built in 1994 and designed to withstand the blast from
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Day 264: Peterhead to Fraserburgh
Peterhead is the largest fishing port by landings in the UK. Seagulls mob a crew winding in their net. Passing through the residential streets, an amusing sign sits between two houses, mounted on the boundary fence above a mattress and
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Day 263: Newburgh to Peterhead
Fly fishermen are spread across the River Ythan. I’ve never seen the attraction. There’s a daily limit of two sea trout, and salmon must be returned to the water. The Forvie Nature Reserve is closed between April and August to
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