My plan was to get up very early, creating enough contingency time to navigate the “severe” 14 miles to St Ives, and catch the 4pm train home. There is only one small problem. I forgot that sunrise is getting later, […]

I crawl out of my tent, still half-asleep, to be immediately quizzed on my plans for the day by a tiny, golden-haired sprite. Her mother duly appears to spare me a prolonged interrogation. She is wearing a long Afghan coat.

This week’s plan is to hike from Penzance to St Ives over three days of increasing difficulty. The final day is rated “severe” by the SWCP association. Although my new Keen Targhee II boots seem perfect for my wide feet,

Porthleven is sleeping off a collective hangover, given how busy the pubs were last night. I pass a memorial for mariners drowned on this part of the coast, commemorating the passing of the Grylls’ Act of 1808, since when bodies

The electronic fog horn at Lizard Lighthouse, repeating every 30 seconds, failed to wake me during the night. I had the strangest dream that Dave Grohl was playing an acoustic version of “Times Like These” at the campsite. I wish.

Other hikers recommended the Fat Apples cooked breakfast, but a positive Covid test has locked them down, so no hot food until Coverack, which is about five miles along the coast. Another energy bar for breakfast then. Yum. It appears