Routeburn Track

Our road trip down the West Coast ends at the adventure capital of the world, Queenstown, where a shuttle bus takes us to the start of the 20-mile alpine Routeburn Track, another of the Great Walks and the second New Zealand hike in my 100 Hikes of a Lifetime challenge.

Day 1: 6 miles to Routeburn Falls Hut

Leaving the trailhead, the pretty rainbow is either a good omen for the three days ahead or a harbinger of the wet weather forecast. Let’s be positive and choose the former.

Today, we will ascend around 1,600 feet to reach the Routeburn Falls Hut above 3,000 feet. Hayley is on point again. Yes, I’m enjoying a Vietnam war novel, Matterhorn by Karl Marlantes, on my iPhone Kindle app. It’s not the best way to read a book, but I’m too tired in the evenings to concentrate on the nature paperbacks I brought (The Book of Tresspass and Waterlog).

The path follows a gorge where the crystal clear water of the Route Burn cascades down below. A large party, shepherded between two guides, snakes past in the opposite direction, all sporting bright orange backpack rain covers. Ultimate Hikes has private huts on the trail, serving meals for its clients — tramping in style — at a price.

This trail is more open than the Heaphy Track, with fine views across the valley floor.

The heavens open just as we reach the sanctuary of the hut. It’s very impressive with large cooking and communal areas and a veranda with spectacular views back down the valley. The only downside is the huge dorm. Hayley reaches for her earplugs.

We are the first to arrive and chat with the resident ranger.

“Could I ask a favour?”

Oh Oh. He’s going to ask us to sweep the hut before the others arrive.

“I missed the gas resupply truck. Could you pop back down to the trailhead and pick up the canisters for me?”

He’s a character.

On the Heaphy Track we made do with the usual freeze-dried meals, only to discover other hikers feasting on fresh bread, cheese, smoked meats, salad and cake. This time, I’ve carried a small bottle of pinot noir in my backpack, carefully wrapped in a towel. The wine appears with a flourish, much to the envy of our fellow diners. I don’t think it will be repeated on my camping trips though.

In the evening, the ranger gives an interesting talk on the local wildlife and weather conditions. The colourful kea is the world’s only mountain parrot and often comes down to the hut in the night. We are warned to bring all drying clothes, boots and waterproofs into the hut overnight, as the birds have a habit of stealing shoes and tearing waterproofs into strips. We are also to keep the outside toilet doors firmly closed, otherwise a possum might sneak in, as a woman discovered one night, sitting down in the dark and feeling something furry round her ankles, waking the entire hut up with her screams.

Day 2: 7 miles to Lake Mackenzie Hut

Heavier rain is forecast as the day progresses, so Hayley is keen for an early start, both waking at 6 am in the pitch-black dorm. To avoid disturbing the others, given my headtorch is broken, I pre-packed most of my gear last night. However, it’s still a struggle to gather the remaining items and bundle them outside for a proper sort, wary of thieving kea and sneaky possums. We are on the trail by 7 am, the first ones out in the gorgeous dawn light.

After a beautiful climb, the path hugs the hillside, revealing Lake Harris.

What a magnificent moment. For once, I have someone in the shot to give a sense of the scale.

We reach the highest point of the track at the Harris Saddle shelter. There’s an optional side trip up Conical Hill. We are in danger of reaching our destination by midday, so we must explore. Should we leave our packs in the shelter? We are the first ones here and wary of leaving them unattended — big mistake. It’s a hard climb, including a little scrambling. The views on the way up are dramatic despite the clouds.

A bitterly cold wind scours the summit. Huge peaks stretch away in all directions and we can see as far as the sea. We have the place to ourselves and run around taking photos before finding a place to shelter.

Descending, we pass other hikers on the way up. The shelter is a good place for a snack. It’s also full of backpacks. We are the only ones foolish enough to carry ours up the hill.

Leaving the hut, the path runs along the mountainside for a few miles. Another tour party approaches on the narrow track. Suddenly, my right leg vanishes through the heather and over the edge as I drop to the other knee and roll into the hillside. I need to pay attention to my feet.

I hear the kea before I see it, followed by a group of five. They are so funny, with high-pitched squawking, almost indignant. I’m too slow to take a picture.

The Lake Mackenzie Hut is now visible far below next to a turquoise lake. It looks so close and yet the tricky zigzag descent takes another hour. We make it just as the rain arrives. We also get the choice of one of the few bottom bunks rather than a long communal pad — a good call to set off early.

Day 3: 7 miles

It rained all night, but we leave the hut early while it’s dry.

We pass the Ultimate Hikers hut — how the other half live.

A landslip allows a rare view through the break in the trees.

The 570-foot Earland Falls are in full force after the recent rain.

We become a little damp walking through the spray.

There are picnic tables at Lake Howden where you can rest and enjoy the scenery, but the sand flies keep us moving.

We are too weary for a detour to climb to another viewpoint and push on to the finish with two hours still to wait for the shuttle bus. We take our shoes off, stretch out and rest, looking forward to a good meal and shower in Queenstown. Another beautiful trail, very different to the Heaphy Track and probably my favourite due to the more expansive views.

Date of walk: Wednesday 19 to Friday 21 February 2025.

Walk distance: 20 miles.