West Highland Way: Day 1

The very popular West Highland Way runs for 96 miles from Milngavie, on the outskirts of Glasgow, up to Fort William. I’m tackling it in the first week of April to avoid the crowds, the pesky midges, and the worst of the winter weather. My plan is to complete the trail in five days, camping along the way.

This is my first “thru-hike” — walking the entire trail in one go rather than sections, as I do on my coastal walk — and I’m excited, having seen so many wonderful photos of the route, which becomes more spectacular with each day. I’m also a little apprehensive as freezing wind, rain, and snow are forecast.

The obelisk start marker is fittingly damp at 7am from the overnight rain. I meet Billy and his three friends who are also setting off this morning.

“You look a bit more professional than us.”

They are waiting for Greggs to open, but I want to take advantage of the dry weather so wish them well and head off confidently along the street.

“You’re going the wrong way mate!”

Yup, very professional.

The initial path is gentle, being easy underfoot, through parks and shallow valleys. I can’t stop grinning; this is it!

There are some ominous early signs of walkers attempting to hike the entire trail sustained only by McEwans Export.

The landscape soon opens up with high deer fences, moorland, yellow gorse, and fells.

Outside Drymen, I come across two young guys from New York, Gerrard and Derek, taking a lunch break on a grassy rise. They are also camping over five days, so our paths are likely to cross many times.

After a pleasant walk through Garadhban Forest, Conic Hill appears; a small climb to end the day.

Descending into Balmaha, there is a wonderful view of Loch Lomond, if a little misty.

The Oak Tree Inn serves up a welcome beef and ale pie with mash and a delicious pint of Belhaven Best. Gerrard and Derek arrive, and we start chatting with other hikers at nearby tables. No-one else is camping, preferring hotels and luggage transfers.

It’s a short walk to Milarrochy Bay campsite, past the lone tree; one of the most photographed views of Loch Lomond.

Pitching my tent, I struggle to get the pegs into the ground and resort to using a nearby rock. Steve, the warden, kindly arrives with a mallet just as I bash the last peg in.

“Thanks. It’s the thought that counts.”

He takes a suspicious look at my tent.

“Is that waterproof?”

I leap to its defence. It may look lightweight but its served me well for over 1,500 miles through strong wind and rain. We chat for a while and he offers helpful advice about tomorrow’s walk. Time for a warm shower and a hot brew. It’s been a pretty comfortable and enjoyable first day, especially as the rain held off.

Walk distance: 21 miles.

Total distance: 21 miles.