Sitting in my sleeping bag, cradling hot porridge, my breath plumes in the air. It’s minus two, but dry outside. I’m excited; the 18 mile trail to Kinlochleven winds through stunning mountain ranges.
I’m clearly enjoying my sleep too much, as Gerrard and Derek are long gone, and Dave, who stopped three miles earlier yesterday, walks past as I am packing the tent. I meet cheerful Jade, who asks for directions.
The track into the Black Mount range is firm and wide, allowing me to focus on the views rather than my feet. The wind has picked up, with strong gusts; the wind chill taking the temperature well below zero. I’m warm under four layers and comfortable. The cold I can handle; it’s the incessant rain that makes life tough.
There are mountains to my left and the vast watery expanse of Rannoch Moor to my right. Robert Macfarlane describes crossing the moor at night in Wild Places. It looks less threatening in the morning light. Unfortunately, I can’t get a good shot to show all the water.
Descending into a wide valley, with the magnificent Buachaille Etive Mor guarding the entrance to Glen Coe, I’m overwhelmed. There are snow capped mountains on three sides and the moor behind me. The farther I walk along this trail, the smaller I feel. I’ll happily trade all those hours in the rain for this moment.
There’s a guy sitting with his shoes off, so I ask if he needs any plasters. Darius is fine and we walk to the nearby Kings House Hotel together for hot soup and thick wedges of crusty bread. We debate a pint, but there is still a long way to go.
After lunch, Darius heads off, while I linger to take more photos.
There are three men in front of me, with music. The “House of the rising sun” echoes down the valley, one of my favourites.
Approaching the 550m Devil’s Staircase, the highest point on the trail, I look back and enjoy more wonderful views.
The weather changes suddenly, as snow rolls in, adding to the atmosphere. One chap is pulling his partner along with a hiking pole.
The path is much busier today, and I meet people walking in the opposite direction for the first time. However, the landscape is so vast, speckled with snow, that they are quickly absorbed.
I start the descent to Kinlochleven under dark clouds. It is deceptively long, as the trail winds round the mountains.
The Blackwater campsite is excellent, with a warm drying room for my wet gear. I meet Darius, Greg from France, and Gav from Leeds, and we have a premature end of trail celebration in the Tailrace Inn; mince and tatties washed down with several pints of Belhaven Best. I’ll regret this in the morning, but such a spectacular day deserves a toast. Possibly my best ever day’s hiking in the UK. I want more of this.
Walk distance: 18 miles.
Total distance: 81 miles.
Lovely post and fabulous photos. I’ve only ever driven across Rannoch Moor, but it takes my breath away every time.
Thanks Ruth. I will definitely return to climb some of the mountains and perhaps explore the moor. It was fun to stop at Rannoch Station on the train journey back to Glasgow.
Hi Tony, stayed at the Blackwater a number of times over the years. Glad you experienced the Tailrace Inn, there used to be a chippy very closeby to the pub. There also used to be a pub in the climbing wall centre (part of the old smelting works). Not far to go now.
Someone recommended the chippy, but it was closed. The Tailrace Inn was busy, serving good grub and beer.
Loving the blog Tony. It’s bringing the WHW memories all back. That Thursday was also my best day’s hiking in the UK…those views!
Gav
Hey Gav. It was good to meet up. Planning your next hike?