Day 119: Port William to Sandhead

I’m woken at 4am by the wind roaring off the sea. A bracing stroll down to the water’s edge is followed by a leisurely breakfast — my first test of the Expedition Foods range: granola with raspberries, which is delicious.

It’s a little chilly for contemplation at Port William harbour …

… but wise words from the Welsh poet W H Davies.

The walking is tough, going headfirst into the cold wind.

Chapel Finian was a sanctuary for pilgrims, landing by boat from Ireland, on their way to the shrine of St Ninian at Whithorn. I can imagine some rough sea crossings.

There’s no shelter from the wind, ripping across the vastness of Luce Bay.

Glenluce is a big disappointment as there is nowhere serving food, including the pub. Grabbing a dodgy sandwich and can of coke from the local shop, I sit in the small square. All of a sudden, 30 primary school children arrive to fill up the banked rows of seats behind me, before belting out a rendition of “Donald Where’s Your Troosers?”. Is this a traditional welcome for visitors? They are practising for their Jubilee concert.

There is a long road walk round the MOD weapons testing range next to Luce sands. Finally, I join the Mull of Galloway Trail, which guides me through the dunes to the most stunning beach that seems to go on forever.

The beach takes me to Sands of Luce Holiday Park. The manager, Jack, has kindly allowed me to pitch for the night, even though the site is no longer generally open for camping. I spend a lovely evening in the bar with Jack, his wife Amy, Lauren, and Charles, who, incredibly, walked round the entire coast of Britain in 2018. I drink too many beers before managing to find my tent in the dark. A wonderful end to the week. I just need to make sure I wake up in time to catch the bus home!

Walk distance: 23 miles.

Total distance: 1,846 miles.