The plan for the week is to hike round the hammer-headed Rhins of Galloway before following the Ayrshire Coastal Path north to Ardrossan, where there is a good rail connection to Glasgow. It’s challenging but will allow me to return easily in July and take a ferry to explore the Isle of Arran.
It took the entire day to travel back up to Sandhead yesterday, camping once more at Sands of Luce Holiday Park, with the tent pegs weighed down with large stones against the gusty wind. It drives into me as I set off south along the Mull of Galloway Trail.
The path follows the shoreline round a series of pretty bays. The occasional black head of a seal breaks the surface, glistening in the sunlight.
I grab a light all day breakfast at the Mariners Coffee Shop in Drummore, which sets me up for the rest of the day.
The rain arrives just in time to soak the most overgrown section of the path, with ferns up to my waist. It’s a relief to descend into East Tarbet bay and shelter from the wind. It would be a good place to camp, but the current occupants don’t seem very inviting. Four caravans have formed a protective square against the wind, with a fire burning in the middle. Closer to the sea, a small group of canoeists are huddled round a fire between some vans. Their dogs bark as I approach, and no-one looks up to acknowledge me. I push on south, reluctantly climbing back out of the bay and into the wind, for a gorgeous final clifftop section.
The Mull of Galloway Lighthouse sits on the edge of a 260 ft. high cliff at Scotland’s most southerly point. It was built by Robert Stevenson, father of the famous Treasure Island author.
There’s no-one else around, which is hardly surprising given the weather and lateness of the day. The views are spectacular.
Perhaps I could camp behind some of the buildings, but I suspect the warden will move me on, so I head down off the exposed headland to West Tarbet bay. It’s not as sheltered as its sibling on the east side, but it will do. Thankfully, the rain stops and the sun makes a brief appearance.
With the tent pitched, I explore my surroundings, discovering a large mysterious rusting cylinder.
Reaching the southernmost point of Scotland requires a celebration. My older brother, Mike, recently held his 70th birthday party, where I was kindly given a small bottle of Drambuie. Time to raise a mug of coffee with liqueur for another toast.
The cosy light from the setting sun matches the warm glow in my stomach. I’ll sleep well.
Walk distance: 17 miles.
Total distance: 1,863 miles.
Congratulations on reaching the Mull of Galloway! It couldn’t have been the easiest coastline to follow.
I’ve been staying in Kirkcudbright and today we had beautiful views from the Torrs Point area across to Ross Island and the Isle of Man. We had our elderly parent with us, otherwise we could have done a circular walk to Torrs Point.
Thanks Sulewath. I did not manage to get to Torrs Point when I hiked to Kirkcudbright.