The Rhins are so lush, with endless rolling green hills, each topped with a wind turbine, whirring round on another blustery day. I can’t help thinking of telly tubby land.
Quiet roads lead to Clanyard, before heading cross-country to Port Logan. Don’t even consider this if you are not comfortable with cows and climbing over locked gates. Crossing one field, around 40 frisky young bullocks race along either side of me, with one pacing steadily behind, breathing down my neck. Will he try and eat the drying socks dangling from my backpack? Slow and steady does it. Phew! Made it over the cattle grid.
The next field has a welcoming committee gathered at the exit gate. I’m feeling pretty confident now so stride slowly up to them and they part; much obliged.
Things get a little weird at Port Logan.
There’s a charming small harbour, with a bell tower designed by Thomas Telford.
Based on reports from other coastal walkers, it is possible to walk round the Mull of Logan, but it sounds a struggle. If there is something inland that I’m keen to visit then I’m happy to leave the coast for a while — after all, I’m only going to get one chance to visit a lot of these places. In this case, it’s a visit to Logan Botanic Garden, warmed by the Gulf Stream. It’s beautiful and well worth a visit.
Leaving the garden, I take back roads to Port Gill, before trying another core path to Ardwell Bay. I can barely find the start as the gate is swamped by the undergrowth. It’s a tiring slog. The bonus is seeing the first goldfinch on my coastal walk — so pretty.
I rejoin the roads as the rain falls once more. Everyone tells me that The Rhins has its own micro climate. I think that just means that no-one has a clue what the weather will do in the next five minutes!
The plan was to return to the coast via Spittal Burn, but I can’t find the start of the path, and the wind and rain are getting worse. Best stay on the road to get to my campsite at Castle Bay Holiday Park as soon as possible. It’s a stunning location, on the edge of the cliffs, with wonderful views of Dunskey Castle. I pitch quickly and take the magnificent clifftop walk, via the castle, into Portpatrick village for a meal. A great spot to end the day.
Walk distance: 22 miles.
Total distance: 1,885 miles.
I remember those bullocks! I mean, they’re not the same ones, but they were probably in the same place.
It would have made a great video, but my mind was on other things! 🙂
Yes, think we met them too! And about 10 electric fences 😄
Hi Joanna. I never know whether to crawl under or jump over those fences. Managed to avoid a shock so far but it’s only a matter of time! 😀
I too had the pleasure of acquainting myself with the Clanyard-to-Port-Logan Cattle Committee!