Hiking round the north of The Rhins is a challenge. The coastal path is still under development, so most walkers choose an inland route. It’s also a huge distance round to Stranraer, including the busy A718. I’ve planned a compromise route to make the distance manageable, if challenging, including two sections of the rugged west coastline, a historic inland site, and minimal time on the main road.
Having taken the dramatic high path from the campsite to Portpatrick last night, I follow the equally impressive railway cutting route this morning.
Leaving Portpatrick, the path climbs to give wonderful early views, including an amazing location for a well camouflaged house built into the clifftop.
This is my favourite section of the peninsula so far: craggy bays, lush cliffs painted in so many shades of green, tiny caves and waterfalls. Port Kale would make a great wild camping spot. I can see why the 215 mile coast-to-coast Southern Upland Way starts from here.
It’s a gorgeously varied path — soft and springy underfoot. Killantringan Lighthouse appears in the distance.
I head inland after the lighthouse. Passing a farmhouse garden, four tiny lambs race across, bleating excitedly. Presumably hand reared.
In my best Doctor Dolittle impression, I talk to most animals I meet. Chatting to these lambs across the stone wall is a big mistake. One clambers over to nuzzle up against me and chew the drying towel hanging from my backpack. Eek! I pick her up gently, without any struggle and plop her back over the wall, before walking swiftly on, hoping the farmer did not see any of that.
Still chuckling, I lose concentration crossing a cattle grid, where the toes of my right foot slip between the bars, and striding on, wrench my ankle. Not my finest moment.
There are rhododendrons everywhere, making it a beautiful road walk north through a few miles of woodland.
I reach a road junction at Galdenoch and have a decision to make. It’s 12:20 and I’m only a third of way along my planned route due to sleeping in this morning. My right ankle is painful after the cattle grid debacle. Reluctantly, I abandon the Portobello to Genoch Rocks coastal segment and head east along another scenic wooded road.
There’s a footpath sign to Black Loch. I might as well make the most of the diversion and see what the loch has to offer. It’s beautiful, with a lakeside woodland walk. A perfect spot for lunch, sitting on the grass, a little way from the benches at the water’s edge and the hovering midges.
I take a second detour to wander round the community Aldouran Wetland Garden at Leswalt, which has lots of charming features — fairies abound.
My original plan included the castellated Agnew Monument, built in 1850, at the site of an Iron Age hillfort known as the Tor of Craigoch. This is only a short hop north. Typically, the rain starts to fall as I climb the hill, and a sea fret limits the view from the top.
Descending back into Leswalt, I’m forced onto the busy A718. However, Stranraer is closer than I expected, so it’s not too long before I reach Aird Donald Caravan Park. It’s a lovely sheltered campsite; too sheltered as the first midges appear.
I’d planned to walk back into town for a meal, but I’m weary, so rustle up some hot food and have an early night. I’m visiting fewer pubs now it seems, often being too tired at the end of the day to walk another mile from the comfort of my tent. I’m feeling stronger with each trip though.
Walk distance: 19 miles.
Total distance: 1,904 miles.
That looked a really beautiful and interesting section of the walk. I hope I can explore the Mull of Galloway sometime as we only know that area from when we’re coming and going from the ferry.
I think it would make for a lovely weekend, enjoying some of the shorter, spectacular coastal stretches, and the various places of interest. Driving is probably better as you can get in and out of the coastal areas more easily.
Hi Tony, I think you may have struggled while doing this section entirely on the coast. I split this 34 mile section into two. About 80% of the route is rough going, over fences, walls and deep vegetation. I did find old walking route infrastructure, but all overgrown. Along the northern part of the Rhinns the cattle graze the foreshore and were very inquisitive. Best bit was the lighthouse at Corsewall and watching the ferries in Cairn Ryan. Your next walk should see you in South Ayrshire. cheers alan
Hi Alan. Yes, it was your blog posts that convinced me not to try and replicate your feat! I was trying to loop in and out further north which would have given me a manageable 26 miler, if I had set off earlier and not fallen through a cattle grid! Best laid plans…..:)
That looks beautiful – and those lambs are adorable.
I’ve just returned from trying to follow the planned route of the Rhins of Galloway Coast Path, exhausted. It was quite an struggle and I think they have a challenge on their hands to establish a coastal route around the headland. It’s truly wonderful scenery and would make a great route but I suspect they may struggle to achieve the footfall needed to keep the path clear once established. I managed to follow the coast from Sandhead around to where the SUW leaves it north of Portpatrick, but then took to the lanes closest to the coast around the north end. Many sections blocked by gorse and briar, numerous electric fences to clamber over, and so much deep mud caused by herds of cattle. You can even see along the Mull of Galloway Trail from Sandhead where walkers have taken to the road to avoid overgrown vegetation, and that part of the path has been established for a while. Hopefully the Ayreshire Coast Path will be a little easier under foot.
You did well to follow the coast round to Portpatrick. Did you camp at West Tarbet? Great scenery for sure. The ACP is a lot easier.
I’ve decided to spend this year finishing the Wales Coast Path and then linking up the West coast of England with my short Scotland section. I can then get down to the serious business in Scotland and immerse myself in the wilds for a few years. I’ll fill in the East coast from Yorkshire heading north whenever the weather is too bad for Scotland. At least that’s the current plan. 🙂
Yes, that flat area down at West Tarbet made for a great camp with a wonderful sunset over the bay. My second camp was beyond Portpatrick overlooking the lighthouse. A wet and windy camp but a great little stretch of the coast. My plans are evolving too and I may well mix the Scottish leg from Aran onwards with some bike packing, walking legs where there is a good route (e.g. Skye Trail) but bikepacking between along the quiet back lanes and gravel tracks. That way I can include the Outer Hebrides, Orkneys etc but without endless road walking. And it may well take longer than planned as I need to break away from the coast at times to backpack some other routes inland. I miss the hills sometimes, and the 360 degree panoramas and solitude they provide.