It rained all night and mist lies on the hills. There’s the consolation of warm boots and clothes from the drying room. Last night, I entered the campsite through a tiny gate in the trees. Leaving via the main entrance, […]
Day 242: Glendaruel to Tarbert Read More »
My sleeping pad slides down the slope and I slip off the pad — again. It’s past midnight, but I’m startled to see the lake so clearly, bathed in moonlight, the stars piercing bright. A moment to enjoy with a
Day 241: Curra Lochain to Glendaruel Read More »
The Cowal Way — shrewdly renamed in 2018 as The Loch Lomond and Cowal Way — runs for 57 miles from Inveruglas on Loch Lomond, through my tent pitched at the five-mile marker, southwest across the Cowal Peninsula, to Portavadie
Day 240: Arrochar to Curra Lochain Read More »
The road to Gourock Ferry Terminal is grey and wet. I’m the only passenger and spend the short journey across the Firth of Clyde answering questions about my hiking gear from one of the crew who is keen to start
Day 239: Inverkip to Arrochar Read More »
The west coast of Scotland beckons until the midges descend. It was July 2022 when I hiked round the Isle of Arran and caught the ferry back to Ardrossan. The plan for this nine-day trip is to follow the Firth
Day 238: Ardrossan to Inverkip Read More »
A challenging 23 miles lie ahead. The Angus Coastal Path is incomplete and other hikers experienced difficulties following the coastline. The Arbroath Cliff Trail to Auchmithie is a dramatic start to the day. I’m quickly distracted, descending for a closer
Day 237: Arbroath to Montrose Read More »
Duncan heads home, replaced by another old friend, although I’m worried about food rations. Miles of docks under damp grey skies. The North Carr Lightship awaits deconstruction. Struggling in the bitter wind, weighed down with this stubborn cold, I shelter
Day 236: Dundee to Arbroath Read More »
We make our way under a perfect sky to the edge of Tentsmuir Forest, looking forward to wandering through the mature pines and sandy dunes. Strange things lie deep in the woods. Smoke rises from a cabin. I’m not sure
Day 235: Leuchars to Dundee Read More »
Our hotel in St Andrews is close to the university. Sleeping in front of an open window, Duncan enjoyed the bass booming out from a formal garden party until 2 am. I slept like a log — I sleep through
Days 233 & 234: Pittenweem to Leuchars Read More »
A beautiful morning for a beach walk round Largo Bay, leaving behind my last industrial skyline until Dundee. A bizarre wooden sculpture rises from the earth in Lower Largo. The garden and house opposite belong to artist Alan Faulds. Malagan
Day 232: Leven to Pittenweem Read More »