My sleeping pad slides down the slope and I slip off the pad — again. It’s past midnight, but I’m startled to see the lake so clearly, bathed in moonlight, the stars piercing bright. A moment to enjoy with a cup of tea — perhaps I’ll see an otter.
I wake to a gorgeous morning. The clouds skitter across the sky, and the sun may be fleeting, so I should take a photo. It’s freezing outside, and I can’t be bothered to put my boots or clothes on, sleeping in only a T-shirt. Hopping semi-naked across the wet grass, I take a quick picture before returning to my warm sleeping bag. Who else is crazy enough to walk up here at 7 am in March?
The blue sky holds for the descent to the A815 crossing. A nearby petrol station provides a breakfast of sandwiches and coffee.
Signs outside the Glenbranter Forest Office warn that certain paths are impassible due to storm damage, including the Cowal Way. This is not good. I’ve a long distance to hike and there’s no obvious alternate route. I’ll take my chances.
This is quite some storm damage. The bridge over Allt Robuic has been washed away and it’s a long drop to the water.
A local dog walker suggests trying to cross downstream. A path leads downhill to a viewing spot and an easy crossing, although I manage to get one foot wet in the process.
There’s no path on the opposite bank, just dense trees and bog.
It’s not too difficult to stay close to the edge of the gorge and work my way back up to the road.
The road climbs up through the forest. Someone is happy with the damp surroundings, perhaps a stowaway in my backpack from last night.
A cold wind blows across the top of the hill and the road stretches for miles, but the views are lovely.
The rain returns for the long descent to the River Ruel.
The final miles are a struggle in the relentless rain, following a road along the valley floor. I’m cheered to pass a new woodland planting scheme — 36 acres of birch, sessile oak, rowan, hazel, alder and bird cherry — small steps.
It’s a relief to arrive at Glendaruel Caravan Park. It does not open for a couple of weeks, so I have the site to myself, but Annie, the owner, has kindly opened up the facilities for me. Taking shelter from the rain, I’m glad to find both the toilets and drying room open. The latter is so warm and cosy that I’m tempted to curl up and sleep on the floor among the towels and bedding like a mouse in a straw nest.
Unfortunately, the kitchen is locked, so I spread out my wet gear in the drying room and venture out into the rain to pitch under a giant redwood tree. The tent is staked out but still flat on the ground when a car pulls up. It’s Annie, returning to unlock the kitchen. We chat until I realise the tent is gathering water and dash back to insert the poles. A pool of water has formed inside, so I bail out for a few minutes before returning to the kitchen where I spend a pleasant couple of hours drinking tea and eating chocolate-covered oat biscuits, followed by a hot shower. Luxury after a tough day.
Walk distance: 20 miles.
Total distance: 4,069 miles.
A tough day!