A sea shrouded in mist. My train to Fife, passing over the mighty Forth Bridge, flies through the clouds. Alighting at Aberdour, someone is keen to guide me down to the shore. A heron stands motionless outside a lonely hotel […]
Day 231: Aberdour to Leven Read More »
The final day of this trip and a glorious morning to cross the Forth Road Bridge into the Kingdom of Fife, with a spectacular view of the Queensferry Crossing. The only permitted vehicles on the bridge are buses, taxis and
Day 230: Dalmeny to Aberdour Read More »
Three days may have passed, but the North Berwick weather is as I left, wet and grey. Sandy the seal seems happy enough. The tide is out, revealing Broad Sands. Fidra Island lies just out of reach. It’s said that
Day 229: North Berwick to Prestonpans Read More »
The trains are still not running after Storm Jocelyn, so a cultural day. A wonderful 11 hours of sleep, briefly interrupted at 4 am by the ecstatic cries of a woman in the next room, incredibly repeated 10 minutes later.
Day 228: Edinburgh Read More »
I’ve offended someone important, as Storm Jocelyn hits tonight — two storms in one trip? I’m taking a train west to Dalmeny and will walk back into the city. My legs are more reliable than transport networks, which will close
Day 227: Edinburgh to Dalmeny Read More »
Waverley Station is silent, trains are suspended, and storm damage is to be cleared, so North Berwick must wait and a bus carries me to Prestonpans, where the war memorial offers a window over the Firth of Forth to Fife.
Day 226: Prestonpans to Edinburgh Read More »
Storm Isha arrives this evening, bringing 100mph gusts. I’m parting company with the John Muir Way after a couple of miles, as it goes inland, while I’m following the coast, so I’m not certain of the route, faced with the
Day 225: Dunbar to North Berwick Read More »
Due to a lack of time yesterday, I completely missed the hidden delights of Cove Harbour. It’s time to make amends, but first I must find the way down from the clifftop. A road winds down the side of the
Day 224: Cockburnspath to Dunbar Read More »
The village sleeps as I ascend St Abb’s Head in the freezing morning twilight. I didn’t expect to find a hidden valley on the headland. A deserted landscape, the rising sun setting the sky on fire — these are the
Day 223: St Abbs to Cockburnspath Read More »
A new year, a new beginning on the East Coast of Scotland. Travelling up, my sister, Judith, kindly bought me a first-class rail ticket, making use of an expiring credit. The receptionist at the King Cross VIP lounge eyes my
Day 222: Marshall Meadows Bay to St Abbs Read More »