Waverley Station is silent, trains are suspended, and storm damage is to be cleared, so North Berwick must wait and a bus carries me to Prestonpans, where the war memorial offers a window over the Firth of Forth to Fife.
The Murals Trail has over 35 murals and is worth a separate visit. The first painting I see is, appropriately, of John Muir, originally by Kate Hunter and restored by Ronnie Elliot.
Storms have washed away both plaster and murals on the beach wall. The only one that remains slightly visible is Morrisons Haven by Kate Hunter, depicting local industrial activity over the centuries.
The storm may have peaked, but strong gusts make walking difficult on the exposed approach to Musselburgh, passing Memory and Reflection by Michael Johnson.
The John Muir Way follows a pretty burn, swollen with rainwater — a more peaceful route into the city centre than the busy roads through the docks.
It also has the benefit of providing a little shelter from the wind. The crows are accustomed to being fed, showing no fear.
It’s a pleasant walk along the leafy cycle trail. I’d hoped for a different perspective on Arthur’s Seat, the ancient volcano that dominates the city, but trees obscure the view.
The Innocent Railway Tunnel, built in 1831 to transport coal from the mines at Dalkeith, stretches away into the distance, deserted. A wary glance over my shoulder and I enter. A few cyclists whizz past before I emerge beneath Pollack Halls of Residence, where I first stayed as a student. I don’t think I knew the tunnel existed back then.
It’s too fine an evening to waste, so I climb up Salisbury Craggs, buffeted by the strong wind at the top, enjoying the wonderful view across to the castle.
Arthur’s Seat itself can wait for another day, hopefully with a promising sunrise or sunset. How many times did I walk up here as a student? I certainly ran regularly round Holyrood Park.
There’s just time to explore the Royal Mile in the twilight. The bright red doors of the 17th-century Canongate Kirk catch my eye.
It’s easy to see why Edinburgh holds such an attraction for so many people round the world — history and character ooze out of every street and alleyway.
The Department of Artificial Intelligence in Forrest Hill has long gone, but I’m here to spend the evening at Sandy Bell’s — a tiny pub featuring some of the best local folk music. It’s convivial, serves great beer, and the music makes me want to get up and dance. Thankfully, I don’t. I love Edinburgh — there are worse places to be stranded in a storm!
Walk distance: 12 miles.
Total distance: 3,814 miles.
Personally I love docks areas of towns and cities, but I admit the main roads through them can be quite depressing. The John Muir way is certainly a lot more peaceful and attractive!
I did visit the docks on a later walk. I like a bit of variety. All very random. 🙂
I have never actually been along that stretch of coast immediately east of Edinburgh, Portobello, Musselburgh etc. Really should! That looks a very traditional pub.
I felt very at home at that pub. So much so that I went back for another two evenings! 🙂
Yes Edinburgh is a lovely city and really seems to have everything. Oozes with history but also surrounded by lovely countryside and even the delights of Arthur’s Seat pretty much in the city centre.