A princess wishes me good speed as I start the Saxon Shore Way. Only 163 miles to Hastings!
Several piers extend out over the grey mudflats of the Thames Estuary. Not very enticing. A burst of colour catches my eye — the LV21 lightship, now an arts centre.
An early morning exerciser fails to tempt me to join him.
I try to follow the water’s edge as close as possible but end up in a series of dead-ends as the riverside is home to a collection of marinas, historic buildings, warehouses, alleys, and rust. A lot of rust.
The path finally escapes the industrial landscape into the Eastcourt Marshes. Making friends with a local pony, our bonding is disturbed by the noise of whistles, shouting, and bashing of batons on shields. Excited and running back to a prison fence I start to record the riot. What a great journalistic scoop on my very first day. Sadly it turns out to be the Met Police riot training centre.
A couple of ruined forts entice me off the path. Both housed artillery to guard against the French “threat”, but never a shot was fired in anger. The first, Shornemead Fort, is covered in colourful graffiti. The second, Cliffe Fort, is fenced off and surrounded by gravel and sand excavation works. I find the latter more interesting for some reason. Perhaps the clear lines compared to the overgrown and obscured fort.
The signs at Cliffe Pools Nature Reserve tell me about the wide variety of birds. I spot more bird-watchers than birds.
Heading inland, pretty Cooling village hosts a 14th-century castle, home to Jools Holland. I’ve not forgiven him since I discovered, somewhat belatedly, that Hootenanny is recorded several days before New Year’s Eve. Further along the road lies St James’ Church. The churchyard inspired Dickens for the opening chapter of Great Expectations. It deserves a misty grey day.
The Saxon Shore Way signs and my OS Explorer map create a little confusion around Northward Hill, adding another mile to my journey. Finally, I reach the River Medway and despite running late, stop off for a pint at the King’s Arms in the charming high street in Upper Upnor. The only downside is having to listen to a crazy local about his Chinese man-made Covid conspiracy theories.
The river takes me into Rochester. It’s too late to explore the town but I smile at the sign for “Baggins Bookshop” which demands to be visited at the start of my next walk. However, I can’t enter a bookshop without leaving with a pile of books. Do I want to be carrying even hobbit-size novels in my pack? It was heavy enough this time.
A little weary at the end of my first day, I’ve learnt a valuable lesson. I need to revise my distance estimates to take account of detours, both planned and unplanned due to map reading incompetence!
Walk distance: 21 miles.
Total distance: 21 miles.
It seems that I have some serious reading ahead of me. 😁😁
I’m following the Saxon Shore Way but from Ramsgate. Recently (August) I reached Rochester, one of my favourite cities. I agree with your sentiment on books…I was tempted a few times on the Northumberland Coast Path, but remembering I’d have to carry them….I resisted. Of course I could have sent them home in the mail, but didn’t think of that at the time 🤔
Your photos are amazing…so gritty. I’m looking forward to reaching Gravesend so I can pick up at Dover (where I finished up previously) and get on towards Hastings.
Thanks Cindy. The Saxon Shore Way is certainly varied. I find bookshops dangerous. I always come out with too many books! 🙂
😄😄😄 I feel your pain…they are repositories of joy