I’m searching for the Hogwarts Express.
First, I must take a small ferry across Loch Linnhe to Camusnagaul. The boat is chained and deserted. Do I have the time wrong for the first sailing? I watch the minutes tick down and scan the road for signs of the crew approaching.
Thankfully, I’m looking at the wrong ferry as a tiny vessel arrives from the other side of the water. I’m the only passenger on the pleasant crossing.
The A861 winds along the side of the loch. I try to avoid long sections of road walking, but this one is pretty and peaceful.
Passing a couple of motorised dinghies arcing round salmon farm nets, I arrive at Inverscaddle Bay. I’d love to camp on the wooded islet, accessible at low tide.
A rough road leads up Cona Glen, surrounded by a lovely mix of birch and Scots pine.
A cute calf sidles over to say hello.
I’ve neglected the Scots pine. They are beautiful, with long scaly trunks opening to intricate broccoli-like branches, a world apart from the regimented rows of dark commercial Sitka spruce.
The deer fence ends, and the trees vanish.
A less cute local slithers off the road.
I have the valley to myself. This is one of the two possible routes for the first day of the Cape Wrath Trail, a long-distance walk from Fort William to the northwesternmost point of mainland Britain, Cape Wrath. The route is unmarked and challenging. I’ll try it one day.
The path climbs to a pass cutting through to the next valley.
Loch Eil is just visible through the trees.
A second fenced area and more gorgeous Scots pine. Is it possible that I’ve simply not come across them so far on my coastal hikes?
Climbing to a viewpoint, the Glenfinnan Monument above Loch Shiel stands in tribute to the Highlanders who fought and died in the failed Jacobite Rising, which started on 19 August 1745 when Prince Charles Edward Stuart rowed up the loch with a small band of his most loyal supporters.
The Glenfinnan Viaduct is a renowned feat of Victorian engineering and the longest concrete railway bridge in Scotland. It is also crossed by the Hogwarts Express carrying young wizards to school. Today must be a holiday.
I’m not sure Harry Potter fans will be too impressed. It looks a little dull from the viewpoint, not helped by a stack of huge yellow transport containers plonked in the middle of the valley.
I walk down to the arches for a closer look, but they are grim and no more pleasing to the eye. Perhaps I’m not seeing them on the best day.
All that remains is to walk up to the attractive Glenfinnan Station for the train back to Fort William.
The end of another wonderful trip. I’m leaving just in time as the rain arrives tomorrow. I’ll continue exploring Mull next month before returning to Corrour in May for a mountain hike through to Fort William. I like switching between the coast and the mountains.
Date of walk: Thursday 20 March 2025.
Walk distance: 24 miles.
Total distance: 4,949 miles.
I thought the valley might look better without it! I’m with you, wasn’t as impressed with the look of it as I thought I would be. But the rest of your walk looks awesome.
I’ve hiked under many viaducts, some with only three arches and normally love their curves and brickwork. I’m afraid this one left me cold. Maybe it just needs a good scrub with a hard brush. 😀
You’re brave getting so close to a cow and calf – we drove from Fort William to have a look at “Hogwart’s” Viaduct – good to have a photo for the granddaughter who’s totally obsessed!
There was a fence between us! It’s that time of year for calves. I tiptoed past a few on my current trip. 🤫
Loved your coo video!
Not the adder one? 😱
Great to catch the adder! We saw a slow worm on the shores of Loch Lomond a week or so back, but it was too quick for us to catch on film.
I’m with you on the Scots Pines, beautiful trees, especially when mature.
An adder! Excellent! I keep hoping to see one, but I’m just too slow and clumsy; they’re always long gone by the time I stomp onto the scene.
The Glenfinnan viaduct isn’t the prettiest of viaducts is it, for all its imposing situation? Unfaced concrete might be cheap to construct with, but it’s hardly aesthetically inspiring…
I’m glad I always see them on-route and not when I’m about to pitch my tent.