Day 301: The Fossil Tree

The Fossil Tree on the Isle of Mull is 50 million years old and sits at the end of a challenging coast walk in The Wilderness, wonderfully named on the OS map as part of the remote Ardmeanach peninsula. I plan to camp nearby tonight, taking the first ferry from Oban.

The bus from the island ferry terminal deposits me at a lonely junction, swept with light rain and sunken beneath heavy cloud. The other tourists, remaining firmly on the warm bus bound for Iona, wish me luck.

“I hope you have a heater in that backpack!”

The quiet roads lead to a small group of houses near Tiroran, where an enthusiastic local guide emerges from the gardens.

A mile later, the dog is still trotting alongside. Concerned she is too far from home, I shout and wave my hiking poles until she reluctantly turns and disappears into the trees.

I reach Burg Bothy and the end of the road. This was once the home of Chrissie MacGillivary, who lived here for 91 years and offered tea to passing hikers. Close by, there’s a small monument to Daisy Cheape, who drowned in the loch in 1896.

There’s a familiar snuffling at my heels. She’s back! I shout and she retreats over the nearest rise and lies down, watching, presumably thinking she is out of sight. I run back along the road and shoo her further away. This time, she does not return.

On my last visit, the fisherman who showed me the spectacular off-piste hike to Carsaig Arches also said it was possible to walk round this entire peninsula via the shoreline if I manage the tide times correctly and pitch in one of the small coves above the high tide mark. There are a lot of conditions in that advice, and I don’t relish searching for a safe gully with the tide coming in and no way out. I asked on the Mull Facebook group if anyone had done this. The deafening silence convinced me not to try it, so today is a there-and-back walk.

Descending to the shore, the short grass and small stream nearby suggest this is a good spot to return to and camp.

The narrow path rises along the hillside. An eagle vanishes round the corner of the towering cliffs. This is a geologist’s dream with fine views of the basalt formations on the shore below.

The official route continues along the hillside before descending a rickety old ladder. The alternative is to clamber across the rocks on the shoreline at low tide. My timing is perfect.

Edging round a large rock, I can’t believe it — three otters play in the water only a few feet away — pure joy.

The final stretch is a hidden treasure trove of rock formations, waterfalls and shallow caves.

There it is — the imprint of a tree, engulfed by lava from the Ben More volcano.

Heading back, the rather rusty old ladder shakes as I step onto the bottom rung. Slow and steady does it, clinging to the earth and rocks at the top. I imagine it’s a little more unnerving scrambling down — not a route for anyone nervous of heights.

Back on the high path, a kid searches for his mother.

My pitch is glorious, with views across Loch Scridain.

I leave the tent open all night and watch the colours change as the sun sets. No rain, no midges, just a light breeze. I’ve not seen another soul. Bliss. I may stay here a while.

Date of walk: Thursday 17 April 2025.

Walk distance: 13 miles.

Total distance: 4,962 miles.