Day 314: Kilmory Bay to Tayvallich

Father’s Day. What happened to a cooked breakfast in bed with the Sunday papers? Now it’s up at 4:30 am with a bag of porridge and a stroll on a damp beach.

Last night, the rain was heavy and my water bottles were almost empty. I didn’t relish leaving my warm sleeping bag and walking to a stream, so I placed my mug beneath a corner of the tarp to catch rainwater, filling in 15 minutes. I’ll be self-sufficient soon, spearing fish with a sharp stick.

Despite an early start to dry out my gear in what little breeze there is, the drizzle begins to fall several hours before it’s forecast.

A flock of greylag geese rise from a field to my right, leaving two behind. Scanning the long grass, sure enough, they have a wee one hidden between them. They move apart as decoys until I move on, at which point they return to flank the gosling.

Later, a young deer appears from the trees and stares warily before vanishing into the bushes.

I herd sheep for half a mile before they finally have the sense to step off the road.

Roses take over an abandoned house.

It’s cold and damp. This is supposed to be summer. They are still enjoying a heatwave back home.

The trees offer shelter until midges find me.

I’m going to have plenty of opportunities to master the 100 Scottish words for rain. This is a smirr — fine, drifting rain. My waterproof can handle a smirr.

At the Barnluasgan war memorial, I reluctantly join the busy B8025, a single-track road flanked by trees, obscuring any view.

The campsite at Tayvallich has no signs. Where is the reception? There are a couple of houses on the roadside that look most likely, but I wander into the site. The two hobbit huts at the top of the hill are open, so I dump my gear and walk back down to knock at the door of one of the houses. The owners appear and we settle up. Not the warmest welcome I’ve received. I’m not entirely surprised as there was a lack of communication when I booked.

The local pub does a lovely curry and pint. The village shop is about to close, so the barman kindly lets me leave my pint at the bar while I dash down to pick up my Father’s Day chocolate digestives — surely the least I deserve after 18 miles on the road in the rain. Fingers crossed for better days ahead.

Date of walk: Sunday 15 June 2025.

Walk distance: 18 miles.

Total distance: 5,165 miles.

9 thoughts on “Day 314: Kilmory Bay to Tayvallich”

  1. You don’t half put yourself through some miserable experiences Tony! The colours in the photos were fantastic, but not worth 18 miles in the rain.

    1. Well, when you pre-book your trip you have to just go with the flow, regardless of the weather. Comes with the territory, especially in Scotland. You might think summer is a safe bet. 😂

      1. Yes same reason I did so many walks in the rain. Unless you live close enough to go as a day trip you have to book time off work and take your chance with the weather.

        Still looks like you enjoyed it despite the weather.

  2. Have you read Robert Macfarlane’s “Lost Words”? I can’t remember but I’m sure “smirr” must be in there. Persistent rain but you still managed to take some cracking photos.

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