The Taynish National Nature Reserve is another temperate rainforest, dominated by ancient sessile oak. It’s a short walk from my hobbit hut and a fitting place to explore on a damp day.
First, a breakfast bacon butty at the cafe overlooking the loch. A slice of homemade carrot cake hitches a ride on the way out. It would be rude to refuse.
The Eagle Trail branches off the reserve access road into the trees. I like it immediately. Full of character, with a long winding path over undulating ground, attractive stone steps and dense oaks. Up and up and up. I didn’t expect a hill climb. Perhaps the name of the trail was a clue.
Reaching the summit, a well-positioned bench provides superb views in every direction. I’d linger if not for the midges. Why were they dormant in the still woods below but frisky up here in the open? A good test of my Smidge.
Looking north, wooded hills as far as you can see.
A ridge walk through the ferns takes me south along the peninsula toward the Island of Danna. I wish I had time to explore the islands.
The path descends into the trees. I’m using the excellent Flora Incognita app to help improve my tree identification skills, spotting downy birch, sessile oak, rowan, hazel, willow, sycamore and alder. Oak woods have grown here for around 7,000 years — a magic place. A beautiful song thrush agrees.
After a boggy wrong turn, I find the official path down to the breezy water’s edge.
What better place to enjoy carrot cake?
At the tip of the peninsula sits a tiny bird hide — otter sightings noted in the logbook.
Who could resist a sign for The Piggery? It was constructed around 1800 as “5-star accommodation” for pigs with “en-suite” sleeping quarters and running water — a burn passing through each pen. A stone would be lifted in the manor house kitchens, food waste deposited in the burn below, and carried down to the hungry pigs — ingenious. Visions of pigs furiously apple bobbing as tasty scraps zoom past.
The trees give way to open grassland and a private residence. I don’t wish to leave the well-laid-out paths and intrude, so pass up the opportunity to explore a ruined building.
A dozen highland bulls with bells watch closely. Now that’s a sound I don’t want to hear.
An attractive wooden visitor centre is under construction in the clearing next to the ruins of the old water mill.
Benches are dotted throughout the woodland, all lovingly designed to blend in with the surroundings, including the Poet’s Seat by the shore of Loch Sween.
To my side is an Alice-in-Wonderland Lift Me!
I do, of course, revealing a visitor book for sketches and thoughts.
It’s nice to be able to linger in one place for a day. I should do this more often. I skim through recent entries in the journal. Several volumes are available on the visitor website, and I found a couple of printed editions in the bird hide.
Trolls lurk near the children’s outdoor activities area.
I’ve meandered and lingered so long that I’m almost late for my table reservation at the pub, which is a sign of a fine day. The most enjoyable woodland nature reserve I’ve been to and now my favourite temperate rainforest, closely followed by Glenan Wood. Forget Glasdrum Wood.
The village has a large marina, one of several nestled in bays across the Knapdale peninsula, understandably popular with the yachting community. A crew of elderly public schoolboys sit at the next table, chuckling at boarding school tales. I’m expecting Kenneth Williams to pipe up:
Ooh, Matron!
Total distance: 5,173 miles.
Love the stone bench……………….and the bull who would look belligerent if he didn’t have those lovely furry ears 🤣
He is a cutie 🙂
Sounds wonderful
Lovely hidden corner.
That looks lovely. I haven’t been there so am making a mental note.
You have probably already visited some of these places, but I think a fantastic weekend could be had with a car to visit the reserve, hike along the Crinan Canal towpath, and visit the neolithic sites in Kilmartin Glen.
We have been to Kilmartin a few times but not the reserve. I am hopeless at working out how places relate to each other geographically! Especially on the west coast where the coastline is so complicated.
I thought you’d like Taynish!
You were right! It was so quiet too. I guess it’s not on the main touring routes.