Day 317: Kilmartin to Lunga

How strange. A footpath is marked on the OS map, but the OS app refuses to allow me to “snap” a route along it. This suggests a barrier, such as a collapsed bridge. I override the app and manually plot the route, confident I can work around the problem. I’m avoiding most of the A816 and looking forward to a cross-country hike.

After a hearty cooked breakfast, I’m a little sluggish as I cross the valley floor and climb up into the trees in search of Neolithic cup and ring markings flagged on the OS map.

I can’t find any markings, so return to the glen.

Someone is handy with a saw.

The path enters a wood where vertical planks hold back overhanging trees. There’s a shack barely visible. I’m intrigued, but a lady is busy in the garden, and it would be intrusive to take a picture. Is she the mystery carpenter?

I make a detour to explore 16th-century Carnassarie Castle, which is well worth a visit.

A steep climb up a narrow, winding staircase, never easy with a full backpack, brings you out on the battlements with panoramic views in all directions.

Returning to the hills, there’s no problem at all in the area that the OS app refused to plot. The ground is a little boggy — perhaps it floods in heavy rain?

Of more concern is a sign warning of forestry operations on the road I was hoping to take. It’s a bit late now as the only alternative is a several-mile diversion back to the main road. I’ll have to take a chance and sneak past.

Another reason for coming this way is to see the impressive rock carvings at Ormaig. Over 4,000 years old, no one knows why. Tribal territorial markings? Astral worship? Or simply art?

Thankfully, there’s no logging activity today. Now, I need to cut across to the main road.

This doesn’t look promising.

Then I spot a small cairn on the ground, and pushing through the undergrowth, find a hidden path through the trees.

It’s overgrown in places. A fence helps to climb over a stone wall before pushing through tall ferns, crossing a stream and reaching an open path on the far side, which follows a wall around the bottom of the hill to the road.

The road circles Loch Craignish, where I get as close to a heron as I’ve managed.

Things start to get interesting on the quiet back road from Ardfern to Lunga. Several cyclists pass, some pushing their bikes up the steep hill. Wooden houses are dotted among the trees, one draped with Tibetan flags. I’d not be surprised to find a commune.

Descending into the Lunga Estate, I’m encouraged by the sign at reception.

Colin, the chap I emailed to book my pitch, is sitting like Great Uncle Bulgaria, surrounded by shelves piled high with old books, computers, tools, plants and paintings. He’s quite a character, so we have a long chat. The estate is owned by the MacDougalls of Lunga, specifically Colin John Lindsay-Macdougall. I assume this is he. I’m impressed.

There’s a small camping area down by the jetty, next to an unusual collection of buildings.

I may forgo a shower.

I have the place to myself. It’s a beautiful spot with wonderful views.

There are a few midges, so I light another mosquito coil. A piece drops off. A couple of midges are happily squatting in the apex of the tent. I waft the smouldering ember close to them and, to my horror, burn a hole in the mesh netting protecting the doorway. Gah! Whose idea was it to wave a flame in a tent? A quick repair job with a section of transparent tape should keep the devils out. We live and learn — some slower than others.

Date of walk: Wednesday 18 June 2025.

Walk distance: 10 miles.

Total distance: 5,199 miles.